Picked up a Webley Vulcan .177 Mk2 or MK3

[KWK]

   I tried two different piston seals in my .22cal Vulcan MK3.  The oversized ARH Red Seal was a bit slow even after sizing down as best as I could, so I got some British Purple Seals from Chambers Airgun Parts.  The purple seals worked great just as received.  They were slightly harder material than the ARH seals.  That may have something to do with it.  I also got the Vulcan Tune Kit from ARH that has the spring guide, top hat and custom main spring.  It is far smoother shot cycle and no twang at all at a bit over 12fpe.  I had to refinish my stock after a slip and fall resulting in some scratches in the old finish.  I like it better now than the opaque finish that it had before.  Here is a picture of the seals and gun.  Some of the curved triggers are simi-two stage with the take-up spring and some are just curved versions of the old trigger.  I have both and like the fake two stage best.   

The finish on Vulcan stocks isn't usually the best. Somewhat lacking. Including mine. Yours looks very good.

[Van]

 

    Thanks Karl.   The old finish came off easily using Kwik-Strip in the spray can. Then wash down with acetone and 0000 steel wool.  The finish I used was American Walnut by Laurel Mountain Forge which is a solvent based stain that I lightened a little with denatured alcohol.  The stock has a little bit of nice grain showing now instead of the plain orange look it had before. 

[Denby95]

When I saw your picture Van, I was going say exactly what you followed up with in that last post about how nice the grain looks in your stock. Fantastic work.

The aussie CAS seals I received are also much harder than the ARH seals, like your chamber seals, so I'll be interested to see how what velocity changes swapping those does. I've yet to install one though, too busy at the moment.

Karl, I agree with your sentiments that pozi-drive is superior to philips, but as you said, most americans are unable to recognize them as they're fairly rare here. I think the only time I've routinely seen it is on Ikea stuff. I would prefer to maintain the originality of the pozi drive screws even if allen were a better choice. I trained at university and worked formerly as an object conservator (think restorer of antiquities in museums) and as a result I do not view myself as an owner of these objects, but a custodian that continues them into the future. So I don't view it as my place to improve them, but to maintain them with their original intent and ideally within the ethic of reversibility (anything changes done, can be undone). So hopefully I'll be able to dig up some pozi drive replacement screws via McMaster carr after that overpriced misleading disappointment from airgun spares. They never even responded to my email where I simply asked they update their images or include a descriptor to accurately add the screws received would not be the ones pictured.

[KWK]

Yeah, I get what you're saying. I have over 30 BSA prewars. They've all outlived several owners. We discourage any modification or refinishing. But it's ok sometimes. It's yours this time. So do what you want. A Vulcan is a Vulcan. Not really rare or anything. Having said all this, I do keep exceptional care of all my guns but I'll do little changes or a refinish on a more modern gun NP. IF I want to. I refinished my Tomahawks and Stingray because the factory finish was lacking and now they look awesome.
I'm not planning any changes to this one! Keeping this one original

[Denby95]

I had a chance to finally swap in the CAS seal today. The chronograph results were: 750, 748, 745, 748, 747. Extremely consistent, however I lost 50 fps!

So I'll be tearing it back down and putting another ARH seal in there.

[KWK]

I didn't need to use a compressor. Pushed the block against my wooden workbench top and pushed out the pin.  Pretty easy to work on.

[Denby95]

I didn't need to use a compressor. Pushed the block against my wooden workbench top and pushed out the pin.  Pretty easy to work on.

Are you using the OEM spring? I agree my OEM was like that but the ARH spring definitely requires a compressor.

[KWK]

I'm using an original spring. Did you have the spring scragged? That makes a difference

[Denby95]

I'm not sure how we got to the spring topic, nor what the terminology 'scrag' means for a spring?

The ARH spring is simply longer and requires more compression than the OEM spring does. I replaced my OEM spring as it was tired and putting out about 8 ft lbs, and the ARH kit brought me back near 12 ft lbs.

[KWK]

;:JM sets the spring in a tune kit. His springs not in a complete kit are not set. That's what he says on the website. He charges $3 for that. The term for what he does to set the spring is called scragging. Basically compresses the spring fully for the first time. Makes installation a little easier.
Look here, Drew:
https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251488/4852183.htm

[Denby95]

appreciate the link.

Yes, I have both a spring tune kit that he's already set, and a spare spring that is not set and the length difference is ~3 inches.

Here is the amount of compression needed for the ARH tune kit. It's only about an inch and a half but it's spring constant (k) is fairly stiff. Definitely not a table top job, needs a compressor (or at least I do).

[Denby95]

Difference in spring length between an ARH tune kit spring, and the same spring from ARH not set.

[Toxylon]

That's a huge difference! Typically, setting takes out a centimeter or two (sub-1 inch). That particular unset spring looks basically like a spring that had been pulled apart before taking a picture; massive distance between coils, and severe pitch.

[KWK]

I really like Paul Watts videos

[Denby95]

Great video! I wish Mr. Watts was taking on new work, I'd love to send off a Weihrauch or Diana of mine to him.