GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => European/Asian Air Gun Gates => UK Airgun Gate => Topic started by: Denby95 on November 01, 2022, 02:54:03 PM
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Hey everyone. Picked up this Webley Vulcan off craigslist for 110 dollars in .177. Couldn't be more pleased. My first non-german springer. Been very impressed with the overall build quality and smoothness of this rifle. The unique breech is really quite handy too for loading. It seems to like just about every pellet I've offered it so far. I've been trying to research it on the UK forums as they've more info about these things. It seems to be possibly an early MK3 due to it having the MK2 stock but the MK3 curved trigger? Serial number is 852249.
I've chrono'd it on 7.9 RWS pellets. It seems to be shooting a little low and it was covered in quite alot of old gunk that looked like cosmoline when I got it so I'll be opening it up to check things out and put in an ARH kit, new seal, and fresh breech seal that I've already ordered.
Chrono readings on 7.9 pellets were:
711, 708, 705, 685, 698
I believe this is around 100-150 FPS below where it should be?
Heres some pics. Very excited to play around with this thing some more, it's quite a change of pace compared to my german springers and for once in my life, I got to use my pozi drive screwdrivers.
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Nice little gun you picked up. I'm thinking MkIII? The curved trigger is a nice plus, a faux 2 stage trigger if memory serves me well.
I picked up one 2-3 years ago. I havn't been in the gun and havn't shot it much but here was my chrony test results when I did shoot it:
2 Feb 2021 1st Chrony Test:
7.9 CPL 12 shot string:
793 Avg, 802 High, 787 Low ES 15, SD 5, 11 FPE
801 (shot 1)
787
788
789
788
792
792
788
791
795
802
799 (shot 12)
Super Dome Good
CP Wadcutters Not Good
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Thanks for the numbers, definitely puts mine a bit low. It was also covered in something that looked somewhat like cosmoline. A deep orange/red gunk that was all over the exterior, in the cocking slot etc. I was using cotton buds (q-tips) to clear out the cocking slot of what I could. So I imagine thats inside of the receiver tube as well. I'm going to wait till parts show up before I open it up. Very nice to see the ease of acquiring replacement seals too.
Are your internals OEM, or has anything been changed?
The trigger is nice, significantly nicer than the 1 stage adjustable trigger on the Walther Terrus which is the worst trigger I own by far.
I've actually enjoyed it already so much that I've been shopping for a 2nd one but they don't seem to come up a ton and the ones that do (and sit around) seem to be people asking ridiculously high prices for them.
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Mine needed cleanup and lubing but nothing I saw (old cosmoline, etc) indicated a teardown was in order.
I did a little work on the trigger awhile back (I posted on it) and it did improve it somewhat but that is as far as I went with the gun. It was an opportunity buy, I wasn't looking for it at the time.
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Thanks, I'll check out your post history for the trigger write up.
They're really unique little guns. I like the eccentricities of them, and the small form factor has been a nice change. I don't own an HW30 but I imagine it's similar to why everyone loves those little guns. Have you had any issues with the breech wobble that seems to be one of the lamented issues of these guns? People seem to either shim it, or clamp it in a vise to bend it back. At this time, I seem to be free of that issue but certainly want to do what I can to prevent that long term.
I saw another one in your neck of the woods for sale but dates back to 2020. Can't tell if it ever actually sold or not. Very clean example.
https://www.carolinashootersclub.com/threads/webley-vulcan-177.351025/#post-2730929 (https://www.carolinashootersclub.com/threads/webley-vulcan-177.351025/#post-2730929)
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Doesn't look or feel like excessive wear in the pivot. I sighted it in with the open sights at 15 yds and fired some groups, CP's and SD's grouped, so I wiped down the gun and racked it.
Frankly, at the time of purchase I was unaware of a pivot pin being used instead of a proper bolt. Had I known, no doubt I would have passed it by.
The gun obviously sat hardly ever used in someone's closet or garage for years and years, likely decades. Fairy dust rust coated the barrel (surficial, not deep enough to pit). I think I offered $65. Pawnbroker accepted and I left with it. 0000 steel wool & Breakfree knocked the rust right off. The Webley's did have great bluing :D.
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I'd say you got one heck of a deal there. They do seem to be the type of air rifle that most don't know what they are so happening across them is more accident than intention as they're just listed as "air rifle", and its either someone who inherited it or is cleaning out a garage etc. I agree about the great bluing.
Have you by chance ever come across the book "Webley Air Rifles 1925-2005" By Christopher Thale ? I see its often cited in the UK forums. I'm unable to find it available for purchase in book form, PDF, etc. It'd be interesting to browse a few sections of that.
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I am not familiar with the book. What I learned about Webley was after I bought the rifle. My mkiii shoulders well, has good lines, and exhibits quality throughout. I suppose a British Webley that was not abused would last a long time and in the case of the Vulcan, if the pivot was regularly lubed..
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Nice find of a nice gun!
I had a .177 Vulcan that I tried various power levels and decided I liked it best in the 730 to 750 range rather than full smokin' power. I'm curious how the ARH kit works out. I still have a Vulcan in .22 that shoots around 14 fpe, which seems like it should be too hot, but it is smooth and accurate so I have not tried to tame it.
You're lucky to have found one with the newer trigger. The older one isn't great.
Have fun!
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Have any of you an opinion on replacement seals? I purchased an ARH one when I ordered the kit. (I'll update chrono numbers etc once thats all done to see where it puts things at). ARH kit hasn't even shipped yet though so it may be a week or so. I also saw Custom Air Seals (the aussie firm) sells seals for the Vulcan. ARH seals are larger so I went the safe route and will just size down as needed.
I definitely have found that the 700 range its currently shooting in to be extremely pleasant. The gun has no twang, its stacking pellets at 15 yards and takes nothing to cock. However not knowing too much of the history of the object, I want to guarantee that the low shooting power is either a tired spring or intentional, and not something not operating as designed. I've always been pleased with ARH kits in my higher power air rifles so didn't see too much drawback other than dropping 90 bucks on parts for a gun I paid 110 for, but the gun seems more than worth the effort and cost.
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CAS has good seals. ARH ships fast so if your having second thoughts, better cancel quick but ARH has great stuff too so I wouldn't sweat it.
My Vulcan has slight twang but stacks pellets so I'm leaving stock.
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"Spring tamer" Guide works well on the Vulcans. You should be able to take it down by pushing the back block against the workbench and removing the pin. That's what I do. You can hone the sear a little if you feel capable. Apply a little moly. Then adjust the trigger down til it's real nice. Not too much! You don't want it to bump fire. Test it. You won't get to 4oz but who needs that anyway? Real good trigger if done right. No twang in this baby either. If the spring tamer breaks make a delrin guide. The hinge pin should be fine. That gun looks hardly used.
I bought a like new Mk2 Vulcan on GBroker. Bargain price. I was the only bidder.The seller lived in Joisey and wanted to do the transaction outside the unfriendly state. We met at Cabela's on 78 here in PA. Halfway betweenst us. Saved me $40.00 shipping. He brought along a very nice Mossberg 20ga and gave it to me. He and his nice wife were retiring and moving to Fla.
A beautiful walnut stocked Deluxe Vulcan went on eBay recently. Went for more than I had bid.
(http://)
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I remember the gun. Beautiful piece of work no doubt.
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"Spring tamer" Guide works well on the Vulcans. You should be able to take it down by pushing the back block against the workbench and removing the pin. That's what I do. You can hone the sear a little if you feel capable. Apply a little moly. Then adjust the trigger down til it's real nice. Not too much! You don't want it to bump fire. Test it. You won't get to 4oz but who needs that anyway? Real good trigger if done right. No twang in this baby either. If the spring tamer breaks make a delrin guide. The hinge pin should be fine. That gun looks hardly used.
I bought a like new Mk2 Vulcan on GBroker. Bargain price. I was the only bidder.The seller lived in Joisey and wanted to do the transaction outside the unfriendly state. We met at Cabela's on 78 here in PA. Halfway betweenst us. Saved me $40.00 shipping. He brought along a very nice Mossberg 20ga and gave it to me. He and his nice wife were retiring and moving to Fla.
A beautiful walnut stocked Deluxe Vulcan went on eBay recently. Went for more than I had bid.
(http://)
Appreciate the advice! What a beautiful gun too. I've had the action out of the stock when I was cleaning off all of the red coating (cosmoline?) that was on the gun. and noticed the spring has a white guide in it which from other pictures I've seen, I don't believe is OEM. So once I dis-assemble it, I'll grab some photos of whats going on inside. Perhaps it's a de-tuned spring. The only history I got on the gun from the old timer I bought it from who said he no longer had time for air rifles is that he'd bought it from a friend, who may or may not have been the first owner of the gun and had it many years.
I'm considering clearing out all the dino lubes in it and switching it to krytox. I've done with with a few other guns and been very happy with the results.
I'm definitely on the look out for another vulcan. One in .22 might be fun to have.
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Most significant 'wear' to the item is this bit on the grip. Must've been how someone was regularly resting the gun or positioning it against something.
The Pozi Drive screws are a bit stripped out but still workable. Obviously someone has used a philips on them unfortunately.
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My Stingray has 2 pozidrive screws and 2 phillips. Weird
BTW a Mk3 has a "willy wally" trigger. A spring loaded hinge. Same as a Stingray has. Same parts.
I think a Mk3 shares about everything with a Stingray except the breech area and the stock.
I don't feel like digging the Vulcan out. Been shooting the Deluxe carbine Stingray .22 lately.
(http://)
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Picked this one up in February at a local gun show only paid $125.00. I have not done much with it since purchased but will get around to it by spring. I have been told it is a Mk I since the trigger blade is smooth and no ribs, this was confirmed after I removed the trigger shoe. It’s a Mk II if it has ribs on the blade. A Mk III has the ribbed trigger blade and fake 2 stage trigger. Not really 100% certain if it is a I or II but I know it is not a III.
The original owner bought it during the 80’s while in High school to shoot starlings on the weekends at a property he mowed the grass.
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C801tfd, this link might help, https://forum.vintageairgunsgallery.com/webley-rifles/webley-vulcan/
If you measure the diameter of your barrel that may answer things too.
However as I understand it, the white spacer at the butt pad and at the grip was something only the MK2 and early MK3s had.
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Drew,
I will do some measuring of the barrel, I would be happy with it being a Mk II, seems like it was the better version of the 3.
Based on barrel measurement being 16mm and white spacers I am now leaning towards it being a Mk II.
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My Stingray has 2 pozidrive screws and 2 phillips. Weird
BTW a Mk3 has a "willy wally" trigger. A spring loaded hinge. Same as a Stingray has. Same parts.
I think a Mk3 shares about everything with a Stingray except the breech area and the stock.
I don't feel like digging the Vulcan out. Been shooting the Deluxe carbine Stingray .22 lately.
(http://)
Is that stock re-finished? Gorgeous looking gun. It's great to see how many of these there are out there. Raises my hopes now that I know to look for one, to find another.
While I've already purchased the ARH kit to go into mine, especially since we're in the US, wasn't going to deal with overseas shipping. Has anyone tried any of the alternatives out there? I saw mentions on the UK forums of a welsh willy kit, a tinbum kit (or at least guides), some mentions of putting a titan spring and some UK sites selling guides for that titan spring, and finally some mentions of people putting in gas rams, both generic and theoben gas rams.
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I haven't used kits by the British tuners, but having spent quite a bit of time on the British forums soaking up the knowhow, I can tell that Welsh Willy and Tinbum are quality, if far from the only, options. I do have experience with the Titan XS springs over several of my guns (and more on the way).
With the Vulcan being a 12 fpe, British gun, the Titan #7 would be the best bet for a replacement mainspring. It may or may not need trimming to get down to a specific power goal. The exact fit of the spring to the spring guide is another potential issue; guide fitted to a particular spring is really the way to go.
Maccari springs are sweet, if usually a little oversized for the OEM spring guides (I don't blame Maccari, since with the promise that the springs will fit OEM parts, he can't take the risk the spring ID's were even a little too small).
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My Stingray has 2 pozidrive screws and 2 phillips. Weird
BTW a Mk3 has a "willy wally" trigger. A spring loaded hinge. Same as a Stingray has. Same parts.
I think a Mk3 shares about everything with a Stingray except the breech area and the stock.
I don't feel like digging the Vulcan out. Been shooting the Deluxe carbine Stingray .22 lately.
(http://)
Is that stock re-finished? Gorgeous looking gun. It's great to see how many of these there are out there. Raises my hopes now that I know to look for one, to find another.
While I've already purchased the ARH kit to go into mine, especially since we're in the US, wasn't going to deal with overseas shipping. Has anyone tried any of the alternatives out there? I saw mentions on the UK forums of a welsh willy kit, a tinbum kit (or at least guides), some mentions of putting a titan spring and some UK sites selling guides for that titan spring, and finally some mentions of people putting in gas rams, both generic and theoben gas rams.
I just put Tru oil over the dry factory finish that basically revealed nothing. I used another product to bind the finish. I don't necessarily prefer the plastic coat look but it really shows off the iridescence in this piece of wood.
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For those interested, heres the ARH spring and seal. Going to try and get them in this weekend and will update some pics of the internals.
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More of this 'orange stuff' inside the gun. I don't believe it to be ferric corrosion, seems to be the residue of something that was at one point just smeared all within and outside the gun. The original seal wasn't in too bad of shape, the ARH seal slipped right on but did require some sizing reduction, and I had to deburr the slot. Biggest fight in the re-assembly was really the chisel spring and pushing the chisel in enough to slot the pin in. Next time I'll use some dummy pins for that.
I finished up around 10:30 at night so I didn't want to do a test shot too late, but upon cocking/decocking the gun, I can already tell theres alot more force at play. The ARH and original spring have the same length so I guess the original was just worn out. Original guide was nicely fit and tight, so I'll say that to compliment. Tomorrow I'll get a string of shots through the chrono
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Chronograph update with the new seal and ARH kit with 7.9 RWS pellets. I've also removed all the dino lubes and switched it to kryptox. So I'm sure it needs to settle in a bit.
800, 790, 787, 787, 800.
Average is 792 making it shoot at ~11.15 ft pounds, at least with these pellets.
The gun feels just as easy to cock and shoot as it did when it was shooting in the 700s. So nice power upgrade for no discernible increased cocking effort.
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Sounds like you done good son!
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Well done, Drew!
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12 ft lbs is good for that gun, what seal was that green looking piston seal?
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12 ft lbs is good for that gun, what seal was that green looking piston seal?
The green seal is the replacement seal I purchased from Air rifle HQ.
https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251485/945836.htm (https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251485/945836.htm)
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Was it TIGHT.. fit?
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Yes, it was too tight. I had to reduce its diameter using 400 grit micromesh. I chucked it up in a drill and held the micromesh pad to the sealing edge. Took about 2 minutes.
The CAS aussie seals which was the other piston seal option I looked at are slightly smaller but I didn't know my receiver's internal diameter before opening so I went with the largest seal possible. ARH specifically says their seal is slightly oversized due to some tubes out there being very large.
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27.2 to 27.4 on parachutes the later for bigger bores. That being said Webley were great at being on. The Aussie seals are to deep set on the center post and you loose to much swept volume in small stroke guns like the Vulcan,stingray,longbow
I have some and am not thrilled. They are sized well at 27.4 but he missed the mark on the center
I run O rings on all my smaller 27 mm guns with far better efficiency and shot cycle. I have ran them on big Tommy’s to..
The Venom cup style seals are the best, if I run seals ..but are not easy to make .
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Interesting to know about that center. So you're saying the seal sits a bit too high, causing the piston as a whole to have a higher height and thus reduced potential volume in the cylinder? I've ordered some of the aussie seals simply because I like to monkey with things that already work just fine. Probably be a few weeks before those show up anyways so I'll keep shooting the ARH seal and see how it runs in along with the fresh spring. The ARH seal seemed very nice, it was extremely slippery. Moreover, I continue to be very happy with all the tune kits I've purchased from Mr. Maccari.
I'm also waiting for some new breech seals I ordered to show up from the Aussie firm. The original seems to seal fine via paper test but it wouldn't surprise me if it's actually the original seal from the factory.
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The seals stem inner dimensions are off, they will go on but sit off the piston and there is a gap between the metal stem that’s larger than it needs to be. .. at least the two I just got last month.
The ARH seals are good material but you need to size them
M
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Just updating for anyone interested. The aussie breech seals showed up. There was no noticeable sealing issue with my original breech seal but it was visibly deformed and likely original from 40 years ago, so I wanted to get a fresh one in. They're identical in size to the original rubber seal but of a higher durometer than the rubber (they're much harder), so installing the breech seal took some effort and at times I wished I had a 3rd hand. End results are exactly the same as when I had the rubber one in. Chrono'ing at the same speeds, lock up is the same etc so all is well and I feel better knowing a fresh seal is there.
For anyone considering buying a breech seal... I'd say the original rubber one would be a far easier install choice. Are the benefits of this urethane material worth it long term? I've no idea.
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Keep 'em coming, Drew! This is all very interesting.
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Thanks Duke! Hopefully filling in some gaps of info on the internet that no one has shared. Next goals are waiting for the CAS Piston seal to show up just to throw that in and see where it chronos at compared to the ARH seal out of curiousity. I'm also considering shimming the barrel block. There is no side to side POI issue as is infamous for these, but the barrel tension is looser than I'd like. When the gun is cocked, and the barrel is perpendicular to the gun, if a hand is taken off, will immediately flop down. So when I tear it down for the piston seal, maybe i'll try and see if I can pick up some shim stock washers from the local hardware store. It's going to be very minimal though like .10'', maybe less, I'll have to get my feeler gauges out. I did read of some people acquiring weihrauch shim washers, but hopefully either the local hardware store or McMaster carr can provide more exacting thickness to what I specifically need.
Been enjoying following all your fix'em up repair posts, especially that Baikal! I had no idea those things were aluminum magnums.
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A small update. I had ordered replacement forearm screws, and trigger screws from Airgunspares.com. Their pictures showed replacement screws that were the original pozi-drive style of fastener, something which is not easily obtained in the US. So I spent some 15 pounds on screws that I could've easily bought here in the US for 3 bucks but was hoping to maintain the originality of the piece. (my first bachelor's degree was in the conservation of objects).
Anyways thats not what showed up, instead I got some allen headed screws that I could've bought myself. So if you need the front forearm screws and are striving for the original pozi drive style, airgunspares picture will mislead you.
Here is a picture of the original wallowed out pozi drive next to what I received (the allen head).
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I tried two different piston seals in my .22cal Vulcan MK3. The oversized ARH Red Seal was a bit slow even after sizing down as best as I could, so I got some British Purple Seals from Chambers Airgun Parts. The purple seals worked great just as received. They were slightly harder material than the ARH seals. That may have something to do with it. I also got the Vulcan Tune Kit from ARH that has the spring guide, top hat and custom main spring. It is far smoother shot cycle and no twang at all at a bit over 12fpe. I had to refinish my stock after a slip and fall resulting in some scratches in the old finish. I like it better now than the opaque finish that it had before. Here is a picture of the seals and gun. Some of the curved triggers are simi-two stage with the take-up spring and some are just curved versions of the old trigger. I have both and like the fake two stage best.
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A small update. I had ordered replacement forearm screws, and trigger screws from Airgunspares.com. Their pictures showed replacement screws that were the original pozi-drive style of fastener, something which is not easily obtained in the US. So I spent some 15 pounds on screws that I could've easily bought here in the US for 3 bucks but was hoping to maintain the originality of the piece. (my first bachelor's degree was in the conservation of objects).
Anyways thats not what showed up, instead I got some allen headed screws that I could've bought myself. So if you need the front forearm screws and are striving for the original pozi drive style, airgunspares picture will mislead you.
Here is a picture of the original wallowed out pozi drive next to what I received (the allen head).
I didn't dig out my Mk1 and Mk3 Webley rifles but my Vulcan has Pozidrive. My Stingray has both phillips and pozidrive (dumb). My two Tomahawks use allen screws like you received. I'd rather have all allen TBH. At least they're not slotted like a certain German manufacturer uses (slotted screws do look nice on guns, though).
Pozidrive is an improvement over phillips that works better with power drive during production and doesn't slip. People errantly use phillips to remove (bugger)them. I did not even suggest anybody use a power driver on your guns. Don't.
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I tried two different piston seals in my .22cal Vulcan MK3. The oversized ARH Red Seal was a bit slow even after sizing down as best as I could, so I got some British Purple Seals from Chambers Airgun Parts. The purple seals worked great just as received. They were slightly harder material than the ARH seals. That may have something to do with it. I also got the Vulcan Tune Kit from ARH that has the spring guide, top hat and custom main spring. It is far smoother shot cycle and no twang at all at a bit over 12fpe. I had to refinish my stock after a slip and fall resulting in some scratches in the old finish. I like it better now than the opaque finish that it had before. Here is a picture of the seals and gun. Some of the curved triggers are simi-two stage with the take-up spring and some are just curved versions of the old trigger. I have both and like the fake two stage best.
The finish on Vulcan stocks isn't usually the best. Somewhat lacking. Including mine. Yours looks very good.
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Thanks Karl. The old finish came off easily using Kwik-Strip in the spray can. Then wash down with acetone and 0000 steel wool. The finish I used was American Walnut by Laurel Mountain Forge which is a solvent based stain that I lightened a little with denatured alcohol. The stock has a little bit of nice grain showing now instead of the plain orange look it had before.
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When I saw your picture Van, I was going say exactly what you followed up with in that last post about how nice the grain looks in your stock. Fantastic work.
The aussie CAS seals I received are also much harder than the ARH seals, like your chamber seals, so I'll be interested to see how what velocity changes swapping those does. I've yet to install one though, too busy at the moment.
Karl, I agree with your sentiments that pozi-drive is superior to philips, but as you said, most americans are unable to recognize them as they're fairly rare here. I think the only time I've routinely seen it is on Ikea stuff. I would prefer to maintain the originality of the pozi drive screws even if allen were a better choice. I trained at university and worked formerly as an object conservator (think restorer of antiquities in museums) and as a result I do not view myself as an owner of these objects, but a custodian that continues them into the future. So I don't view it as my place to improve them, but to maintain them with their original intent and ideally within the ethic of reversibility (anything changes done, can be undone). So hopefully I'll be able to dig up some pozi drive replacement screws via McMaster carr after that overpriced misleading disappointment from airgun spares. They never even responded to my email where I simply asked they update their images or include a descriptor to accurately add the screws received would not be the ones pictured.
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Yeah, I get what you're saying. I have over 30 BSA prewars. They've all outlived several owners. We discourage any modification or refinishing. But it's ok sometimes. It's yours this time. So do what you want. A Vulcan is a Vulcan. Not really rare or anything. Having said all this, I do keep exceptional care of all my guns but I'll do little changes or a refinish on a more modern gun NP. IF I want to. I refinished my Tomahawks and Stingray because the factory finish was lacking and now they look awesome.
I'm not planning any changes to this one! Keeping this one original
(http://)
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I had a chance to finally swap in the CAS seal today. The chronograph results were: 750, 748, 745, 748, 747. Extremely consistent, however I lost 50 fps!
So I'll be tearing it back down and putting another ARH seal in there.
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I didn't need to use a compressor. Pushed the block against my wooden workbench top and pushed out the pin. Pretty easy to work on.
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I didn't need to use a compressor. Pushed the block against my wooden workbench top and pushed out the pin. Pretty easy to work on.
Are you using the OEM spring? I agree my OEM was like that but the ARH spring definitely requires a compressor.
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I'm using an original spring. Did you have the spring scragged? That makes a difference
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I'm not sure how we got to the spring topic, nor what the terminology 'scrag' means for a spring?
The ARH spring is simply longer and requires more compression than the OEM spring does. I replaced my OEM spring as it was tired and putting out about 8 ft lbs, and the ARH kit brought me back near 12 ft lbs.
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;:JM sets the spring in a tune kit. His springs not in a complete kit are not set. That's what he says on the website. He charges $3 for that. The term for what he does to set the spring is called scragging. Basically compresses the spring fully for the first time. Makes installation a little easier.
Look here, Drew:
https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251488/4852183.htm (https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251488/4852183.htm)
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appreciate the link.
Yes, I have both a spring tune kit that he's already set, and a spare spring that is not set and the length difference is ~3 inches.
Here is the amount of compression needed for the ARH tune kit. It's only about an inch and a half but it's spring constant (k) is fairly stiff. Definitely not a table top job, needs a compressor (or at least I do).
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Difference in spring length between an ARH tune kit spring, and the same spring from ARH not set.
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That's a huge difference! Typically, setting takes out a centimeter or two (sub-1 inch). That particular unset spring looks basically like a spring that had been pulled apart before taking a picture; massive distance between coils, and severe pitch.
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I really like Paul Watts videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCraLBDCTpw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCraLBDCTpw)
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Great video! I wish Mr. Watts was taking on new work, I'd love to send off a Weihrauch or Diana of mine to him.
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So I've unintentionally acquired a brother to the vulcan (a beeman C1) for 100 dollars along with about 30 tins of sealed Beeman pellets of various types (ram jet, silver bear, kodiak match, field target etc). The gun is generally good shape except its missing the rear site and someone sanding the blueing down in that 1 area or something. I'll either acquire a new site or maybe get a plate over that. Luckily due to the Vulcan, I have a full spring kit, seals etc. It's shooting at about 9 FPE currently so clearly underpowered, so I'll get it open soon and have a look at why.
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Didn't take alot of pictures but this thing was tuned by someone who spent alot of time on it. The piston had been turned on a lathe and buttoned. All the trigger contact points had been polished. It had an ARH kit in it, so I put a brand new spring on the existing kit. Seal was also ARH but in very good shape, perhaps a little tight but I left it be as someone who knew alot more than airguns had been in this thing.
With the new spring its shooting RWS superdomes at around 715 FPS or 9.42 ft lbs which really did not change anything. However after seeing the insides are good to go, I'm not going to mess with it further if thats all it wants to put out.
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As you know, a piston seal just a little too tight can rob velocity like nothing else - a hundred fps just like that. Other attributes of the seal also have a massive effect, though.
The Vulcan was made as a 12 fpe gun, but given that that's more like a well-fitted .22 cal output, around 10 fpe or a little more should be what a .177 cal puts out, as designed.
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As you know, a piston seal just a little too tight can rob velocity like nothing else - a hundred fps just like that. Other attributes of the seal also have a massive effect, though.
The Vulcan was made as a 12 fpe gun, but given that that's more like a well-fitted .22 cal output, around 10 fpe or a little more should be what a .177 cal puts out, as designed.
Thanks Duke. I do agree that it is probably losing power at the piston seal. Based upon my experience with the Vulcan, the resistance felt like an unsized ARH seal.
I was chronying it last night side by side with my Vulcan and the Vulcan averaged about 30 FPS higher than the Beeman, and thats the Beeman with a brand new spring. So whether thats the piston seal, or perhaps a little velocity lost from the short carbine barrel ?
I was trying to google what other users of these guns average for velocities, just for some benchmarks. Then got sidetracked because I also ended up acquiring a 2nd HW50 during the deal that this Beeman came from that needs looking into as well.
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Drew,
you seem to be developing a serious issue concerning the rate of acquisition of mid-power classic spring/piston air rifles ;D
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Lol, they definitely seem to keep multiplying. I really enjoy the easy cocking stroke of the Vulcan, and the trigger isn't bad after changing out the spring and polishing the planes of the interference surfaces.
When I switch back to the HW50, who's cocking strong is a fair bit higher compared to the Vulcan, it's all worth it for that Rekord trigger. Still, they're certainly competitive of each other and Vulcans go for 100 bucks, whereas new HW50's are up to like 400 + shipping?
Just a ton of full for all day plinking compared to magnum. Also great rat guns due to their compact size and lower output.
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My first "real" air rifle was a Webley Vulcan .177 that I ordered from Beemans in 1981 when I was 15; I put over 30,000 pellets through that rifle. Sometime between 1986 and 1989 I sold it and bought a Beeman R10. I regrettably missed out on a chance on a Webley Omega around that time. The little Vulcan was a great shooter.
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Well, with 30k pellets shot, the Vulcan was certainly either a great gun, or a really poor shooter, and you had to try out everything and anything to make it shoot. ;D
I know I've been down the latter road a time or two.
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My .22cal Vulcan, due to the type of breech they have, only likes wide skirt pellets like Super Domes. Crosman pellets shoot about 25fps slower than the same weight pellet that is longer overall length and wider skirt. It has an Air Rifle Headquarters tune kit and British purple parachute seal instead of the 2-piece seal it came with. I checked it today since it's been a while since I shot it. Super Domes 14.55g shot at 615fps or 12.21fpe. The old Beeman Silver Bear Hollow Points 12.65g are my favorite choice as they shoot 640fps or 11.50fpe. They shoot faster and are the most accurate in my gun. I still have quite a few but don't know if they are still made.