GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: robs5230 on April 09, 2021, 06:33:11 PM
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Hi can anyone recommend hammer spring , hammer throw settings and TP size needed for a reasonable shot count at around 10.5ftlb with a 7.87?
Many thanks
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For a good shot count at a consistent pellet velocity you need a regulated air gun which the Crosman 1720T is not.
Whatever settings you may find it will never get as good as a regulated air gun.
Crosman has been complacent with their dominant market position in USA for way too long.
Now there are many Chinese PCP air guns (pistols and rifles) that are better or much better.
Crosman compete not on how good the air gun is, but on warranty and availability of parts.
I agree that at this time (and for many years before) Crosman had the best warranty and best part availability and prices.
I am not Chinese, I simply say what I think, which is a trait that has unfortunately been lost in this country.
Crosman's latest PCPs (Akela, Cayden, Kratos) have been designed and made in Turkey.
Apparently it's too expensive to do most things in this country, except for customer support, and obviously the management.
I have never seen a manager who wants to outsource their job :)
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For a good shot count at a consistent pellet velocity you need a regulated air gun which the Crosman 1720T is not.
Whatever settings you may find it will never get as good as a regulated air gun.
Crosman has been complacent with their dominant market position in USA for way too long.
Now there are many Chinese PCP air guns (pistols and rifles) that are better or much better.
Crosman compete not on how good the air gun is, but on warranty and availability of parts.
I agree that at this time (and for many years before) Crosman had the best warranty and best part availability and prices.
I am not Chinese, I simply say what I think, which is a trait that has unfortunately been lost in this country.
Crosman's latest PCPs (Akela, Cayden, Kratos) have been designed and made in Turkey.
Apparently it's too expensive to do most things in this country, except for customer support, and obviously the management.
I have never seen a manager who wants to outsource their job :)
Obviously you have never owned/shot a 1720P.
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For a good shot count at a consistent pellet velocity you need a regulated air gun which the Crosman 1720T is not.
Whatever settings you may find it will never get as good as a regulated air gun.
Crosman has been complacent with their dominant market position in USA for way too long.
Now there are many Chinese PCP air guns (pistols and rifles) that are better or much better.
Crosman compete not on how good the air gun is, but on warranty and availability of parts.
I agree that at this time (and for many years before) Crosman had the best warranty and best part availability and prices.
I am not Chinese, I simply say what I think, which is a trait that has unfortunately been lost in this country.
Crosman's latest PCPs (Akela, Cayden, Kratos) have been designed and made in Turkey.
Apparently it's too expensive to do most things in this country, except for customer support, and obviously the management.
I have never seen a manager who wants to outsource their job :)
Obviously you have never owned/shot a 1720P.
I am actually in the process of building one, but mine will have a 1701P barrel.
Oh, it will also be a low power build, so don't mind me ;D
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Do you have a chronograph?
Search here for bstaley mod. This will get you started. With the correct tune, you should be able to get a good 30+ shot string at that power level.
https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/1720t-mod-question-4-o-ring-bstaley-mod-is/ (https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/1720t-mod-question-4-o-ring-bstaley-mod-is/)
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Do you have a chronograph?
Search here for bstaley mod. This will get you started. With the correct tune, you should be able to get a good 30+ shot string at that power level.
Thanks for that.
Yes I have a Skan chrono.
Looks like I'll try opening the TP out to 3/32 and start playing there.
I have some bs113 o rings on the way to do the Bstaley mod, which should be with me in a day or so.
I reckon at some point, I will reg it, but I do want to try it unregged first.
My BP2220 is unregged and good enough for me.
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I had two of these pistols at one time and regret selling them. They are incredibly accurate.
Both of mine I did drill the tp, sorry I forget the size. I did the oring mod and added a DonnyFL to the end.
For the tune I liked starting with both hammer and spring backed off and the gun around 2k. Then start turning the hammer adjustment in until I start getting a pop on the valve. This seems to get me a good starting point with the orings doing their job.
Next start turning up the hammer spring looking for the velocity to rise.
On both of mine I did remove the crosman baffles because I was using the DonnyFL and this was more accurate and almost no noise.
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I set up my buddy's 1720T for a similar state of tune
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=86564 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=86564)
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=5728)
The hammer spring tension and O-ring stack will vary from gun to gun. The best you can hope for is some semblance of a useful starting point.
edit: Oops, I just realized Rod linked to a thread that references the same information.
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I set up my buddy's 1720T for a similar state of tune
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=86564 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=86564)
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=5728)
The hammer spring tension and O-ring stack will vary from gun to gun. The best you can hope for is some semblance of a useful starting point.
edit: Oops, I just realized Rod linked to a thread that references the same information.
Thanks very much
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Rob, a little silicone grease on the orings helps keep the stack stay together and in place. Just make sure the top oring, hammer face and tube are grease free. That will keep the top oring from trying to stick to the hammer. A stack of 4 worked well for me. Very small adjustments to the striker make a big difference. Very close to maximum spring and just barely tapping the valve with the striker is a good starting point.
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I set up my buddy's 1720T for a similar state of tune
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=86564 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=86564)
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=5728)
The hammer spring tension and O-ring stack will vary from gun to gun. The best you can hope for is some semblance of a useful starting point.
edit: Oops, I just realized Rod linked to a thread that references the same information.
Where would you suggest I start with TP ID ?
I was thinking 3/32 but have seen a post that suggests going over .080 (around 2mm) is not productive.
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I think the stock prod is .08. I would start there or just under. Worst case scenario you can fill the tp with jbweld and start over.
I remember on one of mine the plastic piece that goes on the end of the barrel caused me accuracy issues and I ended up removing it.
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I think the stock prod is .08. I would start there or just under. Worst case scenario you can fill the tp with jbweld and start over.
I remember on one of mine the plastic piece that goes on the end of the barrel caused me accuracy issues and I ended up removing it.
The info I have from the parts supplier here is that the PRod TP is 1.86mm, where .08 would be around 2mm.
Guess I'll start at 2mm thanks. I can always go bigger easily.
When you say "plastic bit" do you mean the shroud support ? Or the baffles forward of that?
My PRod has the standard shroud support and baffle arrangement, but I have replaced the end cap with a 1/2" UNF adaptor so I can run a moderator.
Accuracy is stunning.
Planning to use the same adaptor and mod on my 1720T.
Thanks for the info on the number of O rings .
Here's my 2220 and 1720T
The adjustable cheek pieces are printed by a guy over here and transform the shoulder stock into a really effective stock
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I think the stock prod is .08. I would start there or just under. Worst case scenario you can fill the tp with jbweld and start over.
I remember on one of mine the plastic piece that goes on the end of the barrel caused me accuracy issues and I ended up removing it.
Just realised the barrel support / baffle arrangements in the 2220 / 1720t are very different. I know the part you mean, now.
Though mine still has it in situ.
I've found that not over tightening the shroud and end cap help on the 2220
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It was part 012. It was only on the on pistol hat it caused issues.
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It was part 012. It was only on the on pistol hat it caused issues.
Ah thanks
Have you had any issues running without it?
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I think the stock prod is .08. I would start there or just under. Worst case scenario you can fill the tp with jbweld and start over.
I remember on one of mine the plastic piece that goes on the end of the barrel caused me accuracy issues and I ended up removing it.
Just realised the barrel support / baffle arrangements in the 2220 / 1720t are very different. I know the part you mean, now.
Though mine still has it in situ.
I've found that not over tightening the shroud and end cap help on the 2220
Yes, they are quite different; the 1720T having 2 baffles and a spring.
I am using this particular foam (cut to length) grip, and it does an excellent job muffling the sound even more:
https://www.exercise-equipment-parts.com/mini-sponge-grips.html (https://www.exercise-equipment-parts.com/mini-sponge-grips.html)
It is a tight fit on the PROD/1720T shroud, but it can be semi-forcibly coaxed in.
The hole is about 9.5mm and will get compressed once it is inside.
I am actually modifying a pen tube with perforated holes ;D
It should work very well on my not-done-yet-due-to-still-incoming-parts 1720T with a 1701P barrel build because the latter is shorter by 2".
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It was part 012. It was only on the on pistol hat it caused issues.
Ah thanks
Have you had any issues running without it?
I didn’t and I was using a DonnyFL adapter and one of his small ldc. In this pistol it fixed a flier issue I was chasing.
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When using the bstasley mod you want just enough hammer spring tension to open the valve at max 3000 psi pressure so as to keep cocking as easy and light as possible. Then use the hammer stroke adjustment to get to desired velocity in the 2500 to 2000 psi range which should be the middle of the shot curve.
When I have it apart to install the o rings I degass the gun so I can roughly measure the amount of valve lift I get with turning the stroke adjuster in while holding hammer against the o rings. I shoot for about .080" of valve lift from point the adjuster contacts the valve stem to when the hammer contacts the o rings using a vernier caliper and find that is a good starting point for tuning.
I would start with the TP drilled out to 2mm or .089" and go from there since you can always go bigger but not smaller without buying new TP.
BD.
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Thanks very much for the info chaps.
I should be making a start on it as soon as the o rings arrive.
I've ordered N90.
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Read somewhere that the N90 is too hard (?).
Bought mine, 113 and 016 in 70 hardness, from Amazon for about $7 for each in 100 count per pack.
These respective sizes are for the 17xx and the Disco.
I use MAP hammer springs on my Crosman/ Benjamin builds.
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Read somewhere that the N90 is too hard (?).
Bought mine, 113 and 016 in 70 hardness, from Amazon for about $7 for each in 100 count per pack.
These respective sizes are for the 17xx and the Disco.
I use MAP hammer springs on my Crosman/ Benjamin builds.
I have some N70 here, so if the 90 don't work out, I'll use the 70 or a combination of both.
Sure I'l get there in the end
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I have a combo of 70, 90 and urethane o rings in my guns since they all produce a different amount of compression or rebound from the hammer strike. Don't be afraid to experiment with different hardness o rings.
FYI, You can change o rings by simply removing the trigger assy and rear cap with spring and use a pick to fish them in and out, no need to remove barrel/shroud assy.
BD
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It was part 012. It was only on the on pistol hat it caused issues.
Hi. Could I just ask a little bit more about removing this part?
I had a few shots with mine yesterday and pretty sure I have clipping, most likely down to this part.
As this centres the barrel within the shroud, are you using enything else to do that, or is your barrel now running free floating within the shroud ?
Thanks
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I have a combo of 70, 90 and urethane o rings in my guns since they all produce a different amount of compression or rebound from the hammer strike. Don't be afraid to experiment with different hardness o rings.
FYI, You can change o rings by simply removing the trigger assy and rear cap with spring and use a pick to fish them in and out, no need to remove barrel/shroud assy.
BD
Thanks for the tip.
I certainly don't want to be disturbing the TP seals too often
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It was part 012. It was only on the on pistol hat it caused issues.
Hi. Could I just ask a little bit more about removing this part?
I had a few shots with mine yesterday and pretty sure I have clipping, most likely down to this part.
As this centres the barrel within the shroud, are you using enything else to do that, or is your barrel now running free floating within the shroud ?
Thanks
I removed all the parts and swapped on the DonnyFL adapter. I also drilled a small vent hole in the shroud near the breech. I’m not sure it did anything but it seemed like a good idea to try and let some of the pressure escape.
The other one I had was fine out of the box and wore all of its factory parts.
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Thanks for that.
I'll see how I get on with mine
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I have a combo of 70, 90 and urethane o rings in my guns since they all produce a different amount of compression or rebound from the hammer strike. Don't be afraid to experiment with different hardness o rings.
FYI, You can change o rings by simply removing the trigger assy and rear cap with spring and use a pick to fish them in and out, no need to remove barrel/shroud assy.
BD
Thanks for the tip.
I certainly don't want to be disturbing the TP seals too often
Yea with trigger and rear cap/spring out just open bolt so hammer slides to rear of tube and remove/install o rings and measure valve travel with gun degassed for starting point of tunes.
I use a urethane o ring against the valve then play with 70 and 90 duro o rings for the remaining 3 to fine tune the curve to my liking.
BD
.
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I have a combo of 70, 90 and urethane o rings in my guns since they all produce a different amount of compression or rebound from the hammer strike. Don't be afraid to experiment with different hardness o rings.
FYI, You can change o rings by simply removing the trigger assy and rear cap with spring and use a pick to fish them in and out, no need to remove barrel/shroud assy.
BD
Thanks
Where do you have the power set and what sort of shot count are you achieving?
Thanks for the tip.
I certainly don't want to be disturbing the TP seals too often
Yea with trigger and rear cap/spring out just open bolt so hammer slides to rear of tube and remove/install o rings and measure valve travel with gun degassed for starting point of tunes.
I use a urethane o ring against the valve then play with 70 and 90 duro o rings for the remaining 3 to fine tune the curve to my liking.
BD
.
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I am shooting at 12 fps levels with AA10.34s going out at 715 fps. I was getting about 35 shots with the bstaley mod but have since installed a reg in my 1720 so I now get 45 shots per fill at the same power level.
If I remember correctly my hammer spring setting was around 3 or 4 turns from fully CCW and stroke was about the same from fully CCW as well so start with hammer at 4 turns CW and stroke at 3 turns CW from fully CCW to see where you are at. Then adjust stroke to get desired fps/fpe in middle of pressure range ( 2500-2000), then back off CCW hammer spring till fps/fpe starts to drop in same pressure range and once it drops add 1/4 to 1/2 turn CW back to hammer spring and you should be close to best setting.. Then run full string to see how the curve plots and also watch to see where the fps/fpe drops significantly to determine low pressure end number.
Then fill and enjoy. Every gun is different so it may take some experimenting to fine tune.
BD
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I am shooting at 12 fps levels with AA10.34s going out at 715 fps. I was getting about 35 shots with the bstaley mod but have since installed a reg in my 1720 so I now get 45 shots per fill at the same power level.
If I remember correctly my hammer spring setting was around 3 or 4 turns from fully CCW and stroke was about the same from fully CCW as well so start with hammer at 4 turns CW and stroke at 3 turns CW from fully CCW to see where you are at. Then adjust stroke to get desired fps/fpe in middle of pressure range ( 2500-2000), then back off CCW hammer spring till fps/fpe starts to drop in same pressure range and once it drops add 1/4 to 1/2 turn CW back to hammer spring and you should be close to best setting.. Then run full string to see how the curve plots and also watch to see where the fps/fpe drops significantly to determine low pressure end number.
Then fill and enjoy. Every gun is different so it may take some experimenting to fine tune.
BD
Brilliant thanks.
THats a good starting point for me, though I'll be looking to set power mid 10's so will hopefully see a decent enough shot count.
I reckon I will reg it eventually.
Which reg did you install ?
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I am shooting at 12 fps levels with AA10.34s going out at 715 fps. I was getting about 35 shots with the bstaley mod but have since installed a reg in my 1720 so I now get 45 shots per fill at the same power level.
If I remember correctly my hammer spring setting was around 3 or 4 turns from fully CCW and stroke was about the same from fully CCW as well so start with hammer at 4 turns CW and stroke at 3 turns CW from fully CCW to see where you are at. Then adjust stroke to get desired fps/fpe in middle of pressure range ( 2500-2000), then back off CCW hammer spring till fps/fpe starts to drop in same pressure range and once it drops add 1/4 to 1/2 turn CW back to hammer spring and you should be close to best setting.. Then run full string to see how the curve plots and also watch to see where the fps/fpe drops significantly to determine low pressure end number.
Then fill and enjoy. Every gun is different so it may take some experimenting to fine tune.
BD
Hi BD
3x N90 and 1x N70 fitted.
Port taken up to 2mm, hammer set at 4T and stroke at 2t (any more than 2 gives multiple farting)
Maxing out at around 700fps with 7.87 and about 70fps end to end.
So not where I want it yet
Wondering whether to try less O rings before I take the port out further to say 2.4mm
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Shot a lot more strings and the following is the string with the least shot to shot variation that I can get.
Still have 3xN90 and 1XN70. Port still 2mm
I can detect a slight burp, but reducing throw and further instantly loses power
698 shot1
683
677
676
677
680
687
688
688
690 shot 10
687
689
688
690
695
699
706
705
696
702 shot 20
705
706
709
701
705
705
702
700
703
696 shot 30
698
698
690
688 shot 34
Guessing now, that I may need to open the TP out further, possibly to 2.4mm.
Any thoughts ?
Thanks
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Start and end pressure?
Back the throw out just a tad more and lean harder on the hammer spring. A stiffer hammer spring tends to work better with the mod. I used a cut down discovery spring that worked well. When tuned well....it shouldn't really burp until the shot string starts dropping off.
Swap in a n70 to get a little more squish with the stock spring.
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Start and end pressure?
Back the throw out just a tad more and lean harder on the hammer spring. A stiffer hammer spring tends to work better with the mod. I used a cut down discovery spring that worked well. When tuned well....it shouldn't really burp until the shot string starts dropping off.
Swap in a n70 to get a little more squish with the stock spring.
Hi Rod.
Start pressure 300psi, end pressure 200psi
When I say burping a little, its not bad, just not as clean a crack as I have had on some of the other settings I've tried .
Almost like air slow is choking with too small a TP.
How big would you go with TP? Or would you leave it where it is ?
Thanks Rob
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Im pretty sure i was at .10 before i ended up regulating it.
Then went to .110 -.112 after i regulated it. Opened up the valve to match and now get 48 shots at 12 fpe. Crazy how many low power shot that little tube will give.
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Im pretty sure i was at .10 before i ended up regulating it.
Then went to .110 -.112 after i regulated it. Opened up the valve to match and now get 48 shots at 12 fpe. Crazy how many low power shot that little tube will give.
Yes thanks for that.
Decided it was choking the air at a 2mm TP and bored it out to 2.4mm on the lathe. Looking a nice flat shot string and currenty topping out at 805fps with a 7.87.
I'll chrono a full string tomorrow as is and note it on here, then I may make some final tweaks.
Awesome little thing. This will be out on rabbits at the weekend
Cheers Rob
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I am shooting at 12 fps levels with AA10.34s going out at 715 fps. I was getting about 35 shots with the bstaley mod but have since installed a reg in my 1720 so I now get 45 shots per fill at the same power level.
If I remember correctly my hammer spring setting was around 3 or 4 turns from fully CCW and stroke was about the same from fully CCW as well so start with hammer at 4 turns CW and stroke at 3 turns CW from fully CCW to see where you are at. Then adjust stroke to get desired fps/fpe in middle of pressure range ( 2500-2000), then back off CCW hammer spring till fps/fpe starts to drop in same pressure range and once it drops add 1/4 to 1/2 turn CW back to hammer spring and you should be close to best setting.. Then run full string to see how the curve plots and also watch to see where the fps/fpe drops significantly to determine low pressure end number.
Then fill and enjoy. Every gun is different so it may take some experimenting to fine tune.
BD
Brilliant thanks.
THats a good starting point for me, though I'll be looking to set power mid 10's so will hopefully see a decent enough shot count.
I reckon I will reg it eventually.
Which reg did you install ?
Hey Rob
I installed a Robert lane regulator set to 90 bar and also per his recommendations using the supplied drill bit of 3.5mm opened the valve exhaust port, TP and barrel port to 3.5mm. With a reg you want no restrictions in the port from valve to pellet since you are reducing the plenum size using a reg as compared to an open tubes plenum. General rule of thumb is you want the port from valve to pellet at 75/80% of pellet diameter so 3.5mm/.140" is right in that percentage. Unregged keeping the TP slightly smaller acts like a restriction to help increase shot count slightly.
Rod chimed in with the same suggestion as I would give to flatten the curve with 70 o rings and heavier hammer spring.
If you can use a stiff enough spring that you can have about .050" of free play between the hammer and spring uncocked and get the fps/fpe you want it will help eliminate any hammer bounce and wasted air. You want the hammer in free flight just before it hits the valve stem with a stiff spring so when the valve throws it back at the spring it cannot rebound with enough energy to reopen the valve.
You are getting close it appears.
BD
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I am shooting at 12 fps levels with AA10.34s going out at 715 fps. I was getting about 35 shots with the bstaley mod but have since installed a reg in my 1720 so I now get 45 shots per fill at the same power level.
If I remember correctly my hammer spring setting was around 3 or 4 turns from fully CCW and stroke was about the same from fully CCW as well so start with hammer at 4 turns CW and stroke at 3 turns CW from fully CCW to see where you are at. Then adjust stroke to get desired fps/fpe in middle of pressure range ( 2500-2000), then back off CCW hammer spring till fps/fpe starts to drop in same pressure range and once it drops add 1/4 to 1/2 turn CW back to hammer spring and you should be close to best setting.. Then run full string to see how the curve plots and also watch to see where the fps/fpe drops significantly to determine low pressure end number.
Then fill and enjoy. Every gun is different so it may take some experimenting to fine tune.
BD
Brilliant thanks.
THats a good starting point for me, though I'll be looking to set power mid 10's so will hopefully see a decent enough shot count.
I reckon I will reg it eventually.
Which reg did you install ?
Hey Rob
I installed a Robert lane regulator set to 90 bar and also per his recommendations using the supplied drill bit of 3.5mm opened the valve exhaust port, TP and barrel port to 3.5mm. With a reg you want no restrictions in the port from valve to pellet since you are reducing the plenum size using a reg as compared to an open tubes plenum. General rule of thumb is you want the port from valve to pellet at 75/80% of pellet diameter so 3.5mm/.140" is right in that percentage. Unregged keeping the TP slightly smaller acts like a restriction to help increase shot count slightly.
Rod chimed in with the same suggestion as I would give to flatten the curve with 70 o rings and heavier hammer spring.
If you can use a stiff enough spring that you can have about .050" of free play between the hammer and spring uncocked and get the fps/fpe you want it will help eliminate any hammer bounce and wasted air. You want the hammer in free flight just before it hits the valve stem with a stiff spring so when the valve throws it back at the spring it cannot rebound with enough energy to reopen the valve.
You are getting close it appears.
BD
Hi.
Yes its looking good.
I'll certainly try and replace some of the 90 with n79 O rings and see how that changes things.
Eventually, I will reg it and probably with one of Rob Lane's regs. Used them before and they're good.
I'd also go for a 3.5 TP.
I'll report further on the nest shot string
All the best, Rob
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I am shooting at 12 fps levels with AA10.34s going out at 715 fps. I was getting about 35 shots with the bstaley mod but have since installed a reg in my 1720 so I now get 45 shots per fill at the same power level.
If I remember correctly my hammer spring setting was around 3 or 4 turns from fully CCW and stroke was about the same from fully CCW as well so start with hammer at 4 turns CW and stroke at 3 turns CW from fully CCW to see where you are at. Then adjust stroke to get desired fps/fpe in middle of pressure range ( 2500-2000), then back off CCW hammer spring till fps/fpe starts to drop in same pressure range and once it drops add 1/4 to 1/2 turn CW back to hammer spring and you should be close to best setting.. Then run full string to see how the curve plots and also watch to see where the fps/fpe drops significantly to determine low pressure end number.
Then fill and enjoy. Every gun is different so it may take some experimenting to fine tune.
BD
Brilliant thanks.
THats a good starting point for me, though I'll be looking to set power mid 10's so will hopefully see a decent enough shot count.
I reckon I will reg it eventually.
Which reg did you install ?
Hey Rob
I installed a Robert lane regulator set to 90 bar and also per his recommendations using the supplied drill bit of 3.5mm opened the valve exhaust port, TP and barrel port to 3.5mm. With a reg you want no restrictions in the port from valve to pellet since you are reducing the plenum size using a reg as compared to an open tubes plenum. General rule of thumb is you want the port from valve to pellet at 75/80% of pellet diameter so 3.5mm/.140" is right in that percentage. Unregged keeping the TP slightly smaller acts like a restriction to help increase shot count slightly.
Rod chimed in with the same suggestion as I would give to flatten the curve with 70 o rings and heavier hammer spring.
If you can use a stiff enough spring that you can have about .050" of free play between the hammer and spring uncocked and get the fps/fpe you want it will help eliminate any hammer bounce and wasted air. You want the hammer in free flight just before it hits the valve stem with a stiff spring so when the valve throws it back at the spring it cannot rebound with enough energy to reopen the valve.
You are getting close it appears.
BD
Lowered power slightly today to get down to around the 10.5 I was aiming for.
I now have 20 very nice shots in the flattest part of the curve, with 10fps variation (low 766, high 776).
As it will be used as a daytime rabbitting rifle, this will do me just fine until I reg it. Thanks for your help :)
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Glad to help and enjoy the tack driver/rabbit slayer.
BD
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Glad to help and enjoy the tack driver/rabbit slayer.
BD
Hi Mike.
Seems all wasn't quite how I thought it was.
The hammer throw adjuster was loose. Every string I shot, it was self adjusting.
Now rectified it with a lock washer and getting some very different looking strings.
I still have 20 stable shots, but these are now between about 2500psi and 1900psi.
It will do for a minute, but I'll definitely reg it soon.
Took me a while to firgure out what was going on. I put almost a whole tin through it yesterday, getting it to shoot an acceptable string.
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If it’s any consolation, in no other type of tuning effort do I burn through as many pellets as a bstaley tune. No doubt, once you find the right combination of settings, you don’t want anything to drift.
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If it’s any consolation, in no other type of tuning effort do I burn through as many pellets as a bstaley tune. No doubt, once you find the right combination of settings, you don’t want anything to drift.
Yes, I'm surprised just how many I went through.
Just need to sort the trigger now.
Its just a little too heavy and has a bit too much creep, so I'll be looking for some ideas with that.
I had a bit of a mare with my PRod trigger and can't exactly remember how I solved it. The adjustments seemed very difficult.
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I'm just proud to see someone with the patience to get through a B Staley tune anymore.... I personally don't have it. 3-5 day shipping from Huma is too great of a temptation, lol..
Great job with the tune.
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I'm just proud to see someone with the patience to get through a B Staley tune anymore.... I personally don't have it. 3-5 day shipping from Huma is too great of a temptation, lol..
Great job with the tune.
Its been a trial for sure ;D and it will be regged shortly.
I took the first 2 daylight rabbits of the season this evening with Mako 10.5g slugs.
Instant lights out
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Glad to help and enjoy the tack driver/rabbit slayer.
BD
Hi Mike.
Seems all wasn't quite how I thought it was.
The hammer throw adjuster was loose. Every string I shot, it was self adjusting.
Now rectified it with a lock washer and getting some very different looking strings.
I still have 20 stable shots, but these are now between about 2500psi and 1900psi.
It will do for a minute, but I'll definitely reg it soon.
Took me a while to firgure out what was going on. I put almost a whole tin through it yesterday, getting it to shoot an acceptable string.
I guess I am just so used to adding a drop of pink loctite to my fasteners that I forget to mention it to others. I either use it to secure the hammer spring adjuster or drill a hole in side of end cap and tap it for a set screw with a piece of weed eater line to tighten against the adjuster to keep it from rotating with every hammer cock since the spring tends to wind up and unwind dragging the adjuster with it in the process.
Regging is much easier on the tuning process.
BD
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Glad to help and enjoy the tack driver/rabbit slayer.
BD
Hi Mike.
Seems all wasn't quite how I thought it was.
The hammer throw adjuster was loose. Every string I shot, it was self adjusting.
Now rectified it with a lock washer and getting some very different looking strings.
I still have 20 stable shots, but these are now between about 2500psi and 1900psi.
It will do for a minute, but I'll definitely reg it soon.
Took me a while to firgure out what was going on. I put almost a whole tin through it yesterday, getting it to shoot an acceptable string.
I guess I am just so used to adding a drop of pink loctite to my fasteners that I forget to mention it to others. I either use it to secure the hammer spring adjuster or drill a hole in side of end cap and tap it for a set screw with a piece of weed eater line to tighten against the adjuster to keep it from rotating with every hammer cock since the spring tends to wind up and unwind dragging the adjuster with it in the process.
Regging is much easier on the tuning process.
BD
Thanks.
When I have it apart to reg it, I will fix the adjuster when its set.
I managed to refine the trigger pull yesterday too. Its one *(&^ of an offhand shooter now.