GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 => Topic started by: UlteriorModem on February 17, 2019, 02:24:22 PM
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I fashioned this intake dessicant air filter. It should work fine. It has an easy draw. Now all I have to do is find the correct hose barb to put on the compressor ;D
What your looking at is a 'tool' that is used to clean fish tank gravel. I put a wad of air conditioner filter media at the bottom filled it with dessicant, and capped the top of with another piece of the filter media.
Once I get the hose barb I will update this thread :D
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7837/40161126903_372c0aea2d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24bUgQt)20190217_131549 (https://flic.kr/p/24bUgQt) by Tom Whit (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152306872@N04/), on Flickr
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Tom
Question for you,
Will your filter handle the psi values involved, what is the pressures involved for the intake?
Tia,
Don
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It would be negative pressure but I would imagine it would be very low. Honestly I have no idea, maybe someone else would know.
My biggest concern would be restricted airflow but I tested it (sucked on the hose ;D ) and it seems to have a easy draw.
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Looke pretty good. What type of compressor are you using it on? Do you have a "storage cap" to seal the open end when not in use?
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I meant to get back to this thread.
It did not work. I suppose that the compressor needs less restriction on the intake.
When I started it up it seemed to run fine but would not develop any pressure per se, maybe a hundred psi but just stalled there. In fact even after I removed this filter and replaced it with the original it still did not work at first.
Only after it sat for a few minutes and started up with the drain valves wide open would it work again.
I 'may' have started the compressor with the drain valves closed by accident but I am afraid to try it again.
Oh it was a Yong Heng btw. It is working fine now.
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Just get one of these
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This was intended for the INTAKE, I already have a gold filter with molecular sieve in addition to the small filter that comes with the compressor on the output.
Like I said it did not seem to work so I will just continue with the stock filter.
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Tom,
Maybe try some door screen instead of air filter media to keep the silica gel in place.
Also check and see if the gravel vacuum has some sort of anti drainback valve in that reducing coupler.
The silica gel shouldn't pose too much of a restriction.
Kudos for trying to dry your intake air though! ;D
Taso
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Nah its just a big tube connected to a smaller tube. No check valve.
I don't know about door screen, seems like that might let dust get into the system. Too course.
I might try shortening the big tube some. But I am kind of leery of it due to it acting like it did the first time I tried it.
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Yeah, there is dust to contend with. :-\
Is there enough air velocity that you'd think the dust would get drawn in?
Maybe screen to retain the silica gel and then some floss for the dust? Finding an adequate dust filter media that doesn't create restriction is going to be tough.
Thanks,
Taso
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The stock filter that came on mine is a sintered metal thing. I have seen others that came with a paper media one.
No idea what kind of CFM it draws but surely it can be too much. Maybe more than I figured on.
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Hey guys I am a newbie but have a Yong Heng for a couple of weeks and am also trying to come up with a pre desiccant. Anyway when I first tried my hand at spray painting I had no moisture separator so I went to Harbor Freight and got a moisture separator that screwed on the gun. It worked the same way my inline separator does in the fact that there is no desiccant but it actually separates the moisture. The screw on type has a filter in it as well and only costs a couple dollars. Since I have my Yong Heng in my paint room I may just use air from my shop compressor that has already come through the separator but before I do I am going to hook up a couple of the screw on units in tandem and see how they work. With the humidity being low here right now the moisture is little problem but in a month or two that will change. I'll keep you posted.
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I fashioned this intake dessicant air filter. It should work fine. It has an easy draw. Now all I have to do is find the correct hose barb to put on the compressor ;D
What your looking at is a 'tool' that is used to clean fish tank gravel. I put a wad of air conditioner filter media at the bottom filled it with dessicant, and capped the top of with another piece of the filter media.
Once I get the hose barb I will update this thread :D
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7837/40161126903_372c0aea2d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24bUgQt)20190217_131549 (https://flic.kr/p/24bUgQt) by Tom Whit (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152306872@N04/), on Flickr
I’m surprised that no one has chimed in to advise you about this fact before. Have you considered the fact that there are no dryer filters on the intake side of any manufacturer’s compressor design, regardless of price? The answer is because desiccant is not nearly as effective at ambient air pressure. Air under pressure makes desiccant much more effective. Air intake filters only serve to keep out particulates from being sucked into a compressor. If you have a gold filter on your output side you don’t need an intake filter. It is an inefficient and impractical way to remove moisture. That’s why they aren’t already on compressors.
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Yea that thought did cross my mind. But I thought I would try something a little out of the box.
Since we often have days here with RH in excess of 80% I thought it would not hurt and might even help.
But of course it did not work. That may be one of the reasons compressors don't have dryers on the intake with the exception of some refrigerated dryers I have seen.
I was also wondering, just how do I know the 'gold' filter is actually working? I mean I can run some air out and feel it with my fingers and it seems dry but that is not a very quantitative test ;)
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I think your issue was with the output not the input. I keep a rubber cap on my intake to keep ambient moisture out when not in use and have started the compressor without removing the cap. That puts a real cramp on the output, but once removed it worked fine! I would try it again and see what happens. I had no damage to mine and it had the intake completely cut off!
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Thanks for the input, I may try it again at some point but I just got through 'sealing' all the fittings with Permatex and wanted to get some baseline times.
So far the sealing has cut nearly a minute off the fill time. But that's for another post.
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Tom
Question for you,
Will your filter handle the psi values involved, what is the pressures involved for the intake?
Tia,
Don
The intake does not build up pressure. So it doesn't need to be able to handle any pressure. It's only use to filter out moisture in the air before going into the compressor. Air flow inside it, get filter by the beads then goes into the compressor. I used the filter from.my hill pumps and it works great on my Yong Heng.
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I was also wondering, just how do I know the 'gold' filter is actually working? I mean I can run some air out and feel it with my fingers and it seems dry but that is not a very quantitative test ;)
If you own the newest version of the Tuxing gold filter that comes with a repackable filter cartridge inside, you can unscrew the black piece on the opposite end of the aluminum end that the o-rings seal. The sealed o-ring side should be the air intake side when you attach the filter in your system. Since PCP's don't need breathable air, I removed the clear dessicant beads and the charcoal sections from my cartridge. I replaced all of the desiccant inside with 13X zeolite (tan bead desiccant) seeded with blue color changing desiccant beads that are commonly found in low pressure filters. When over half of the blue seeded beads in my desiccant turn pink, I know it's time to recharge the desiccant in the cartridge. You can heat the zeolite and blue beads spread out in a shallow metal pan in an oven at 480 degrees for an hour and they are good to go again. In my Daystate LC-110 compressor I should expect to change the beads at about 50 hours of run time. A higher priced compressor has a good water separator tower which extends the time between cartridge changes. Less moisture reaches the filter to begin with.
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Yea that thought did cross my mind. But I thought I would try something a little out of the box.
Since we often have days here with RH in excess of 80% I thought it would not hurt and might even help.
But of course it did not work. That may be one of the reasons compressors don't have dryers on the intake with the exception of some refrigerated dryers I have seen.
I was also wondering, just how do I know the 'gold' filter is actually working? I mean I can run some air out and feel it with my fingers and it seems dry but that is not a very quantitative test ;)
Tom,
The only way to really know without sending an air sample for analysis is an inline moisture indicator. Something like this:
https://www.augustindustries.com/visual-indicator-ind-mois.asp (https://www.augustindustries.com/visual-indicator-ind-mois.asp)
https://www.augustindustries.com/moisture-indicator-disk-kit-mois.asp?bc=no (https://www.augustindustries.com/moisture-indicator-disk-kit-mois.asp?bc=no)
https://www.augustindustries.com/moisture-indicator-disk-kit-mois-sp.asp?bc=no (https://www.augustindustries.com/moisture-indicator-disk-kit-mois-sp.asp?bc=no)
Thanks,
Taso