Crosman 2100/766/Legacy 1000 Bolt

[Blowpipe Sam]

Just spitballing here.  If there is enough clearance could you simply sleeve the existing plastic probe with a piece of appropriately sized brass tubing?  I don't know off hand what diameter that would be.  Cut it shorter than the probe.   Long enough to just touch the breech face (do air rifles have breech faces?) when the probe is closed and chamfer it for an O ring.

[Ronno6]

Just spitballing here.  If there is enough clearance could you simply sleeve the existing plastic probe with a piece of appropriately sized brass tubing?  I don't know off hand what diameter that would be.  Cut it shorter than the probe.   Long enough to just touch the breech face (do air rifles have breech faces?) when the probe is closed and chamfer it for an O ring.

Adding a piece of 3/16" ID X 7/32" O.D. brass tubing makes the probe .22cal........that's how I initially made my 2200 bolts.....
The trough in the loading port/barrel support and magazine is .i88" or so..... going larger would not allow the bolt to travel in its track......

[ER00z]

If this were talk of sealing up the 2200 (.22cal) bolt I've got a possible solution... there's some (synthetic) tubing that was used to seal up the AV Avenger bolts in .22cal, could possibly do something similar on the 2200 with a little bolt work. Not sure if applicable for the 2100 and similar as the tubing O.D. was ~5.5mm. I think I've read in the past about working the breech block of the 2100 to accept an o-ring sandwiched between barrel and breech block, did require some trimming of block for proper fit... I could possibly be mistaken but fairly sure it was the 2100.

As much as I like the 2100, the bolt has been the Achilles heel of the platform. Not just the sealing issues, but also the bolt softening on warm/hot days and being unable to fully cock the rifle. No bueno when trying to make a follow up shot. The addition of a legacy 1000 pump piston really wakes these rifles up, I hope you guys come up with a solution to seal the bolt and get a 2100 really cooking.

[Ronno6]

I already make a bolt for the 2200 and it had been successful.
Brass probe and poly O-ring.......

With every part I offer my intent is to make it a drop in replacement, with no modification
to the stock parts of the gun required.

[Tack Driver 10]

If this were talk of sealing up the 2200 (.22cal) bolt I've got a possible solution... there's some (synthetic) tubing that was used to seal up the AV Avenger bolts in .22cal, could possibly do something similar on the 2200 with a little bolt work. Not sure if applicable for the 2100 and similar as the tubing O.D. was ~5.5mm. I think I've read in the past about working the breech block of the 2100 to accept an o-ring sandwiched between barrel and breech block, did require some trimming of block for proper fit... I could possibly be mistaken but fairly sure it was the 2100.

As much as I like the 2100, the bolt has been the Achilles heel of the platform. Not just the sealing issues, but also the bolt softening on warm/hot days and being unable to fully cock the rifle. No bueno when trying to make a follow up shot. The addition of a legacy 1000 pump piston really wakes these rifles up, I hope you guys come up with a solution to seal the bolt and get a 2100 really cooking.

One method to seal the probe on a 2100 is to sandwich an o-ring (008 IIRC) between the barrel and breech.
Will need to trim the barrel about .050" so the TP aligns.
A straight brass probe will seal it nicely.

Use an Mrod valve stem and a lighter hammer spring to make the gun easier to cock.
The Mrod stem is harder and cracks open with less hammer force.

[Tack Driver 10]

Here's a hot rodded 2100 that "someone" made about 10 years ago.
The last page is where the best action is.
A lot of the tricks can be improved today.

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/thegreencrosmanforum/crosman-2100-hot-rod-t47190.html

If you're handy you can modify a one piece metal breech from the V1 766 to fit the 2100.
Cut off the cast on valve and counterbore the breech for a 1/4" TP.
Remove the forward mounting lug with a Dremel, easy peasy.

[lillysdad621]

If there's a leak, it doesn't seem to affect accuracy!
+1, and im also surprised that even with the mentioned blowback, it still pushes some decent power numbers.

As far as loosing the ability to hold BBs... since it is not smoothbore, BB shooting may not be missed. Heck, for BBs we got the 760

[Ronno6]

If there's a leak, it doesn't seem to affect accuracy!
+1, and im also surprised that even with the mentioned blowback, it still pushes some decent power numbers.

As far as loosing the ability to hold BBs... since it is not smoothbore, BB shooting may not be missed. Heck, for BBs we got the 760

If there is leakage, as long as it is consistent, accuracy will not suffer...

Air acts as a fluid.......it will follow the path of least resistance.
But, given additional paths of differing resistances, it will flow in each path in degrees proportionate to the resistance in each.....

I was approached by a 2100 owner to do this bolt.
I am addressing his perceived need.
It is interesting to note, however, that Crosman disposed of ALL U.S. made 2100 parts in anticipation of receiving new 2100's made overseas.
I would HOPE that the parts for these offshore rifles will be backward compatible. However, whence last I checked, the 2100's are available, but NOT the parts....

As for the magnet, if BB's are to be shot, the probe tip must be of stock length in order to feed from the magazine.
Probes with extended tips can be furnished either with or without a magnet, but BB's will need to be loaded one at a time like pellets.

[Ronno6]

Here's a hot rodded 2100 that "someone" made about 10 years ago.
The last page is where the best action is.
A lot of the tricks can be improved today.

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/thegreencrosmanforum/crosman-2100-hot-rod-t47190.html

If you're handy you can modify a one piece metal breech from the V1 766 to fit the 2100.
Cut off the cast on valve and counterbore the breech for a 1/4" TP.
Remove the forward mounting lug with a Dremel, easy peasy.

Mr Ron, your upgrades in both posts should be very effective indeed.
It may be a tad difficult to package and ship to a 2100 owner who seeks improvement by opening a package and dropping in a part...
Not many will have the facilities or capabilities to implement your mods.
DO keep up the good work !! i always enjoy seeing what you have made!

[Tack Driver 10]

Here's a hot rodded 2100 that "someone" made about 10 years ago.
The last page is where the best action is.
A lot of the tricks can be improved today.

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/thegreencrosmanforum/crosman-2100-hot-rod-t47190.html

If you're handy you can modify a one piece metal breech from the V1 766 to fit the 2100.
Cut off the cast on valve and counterbore the breech for a 1/4" TP.
Remove the forward mounting lug with a Dremel, easy peasy.

Mr Ron, your upgrades in both posts should be very effective indeed.
It may be a tad difficult to package and ship to a 2100 owner who seeks improvement by opening a package and dropping in a part...
Not many will have the facilities or capabilities to implement your mods.
DO keep up the good work !! i always enjoy seeing what you have made!

Best solution might be to swap the piston for the 362 aluminum version and seal up the leaks etc.
Keep it low cost/effort for the highest bang for the buck.
The 2100 and its variants all have the same issues.
Split receiver, plastic bolt, mediocre trigger, etc.

To be honest I don't make parts to sell.
Being retired I have lots of time to tinker.
I like to experiment and see how much can be improved over the original design.
I've been working on a few HP pumpers and should be posting here soon.

[Ronno6]

Here's a hot rodded 2100 that "someone" made about 10 years ago.
The last page is where the best action is.
A lot of the tricks can be improved today.

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/thegreencrosmanforum/crosman-2100-hot-rod-t47190.html

If you're handy you can modify a one piece metal breech from the V1 766 to fit the 2100.
Cut off the cast on valve and counterbore the breech for a 1/4" TP.
Remove the forward mounting lug with a Dremel, easy peasy.

Mr Ron, your upgrades in both posts should be very effective indeed.
It may be a tad difficult to package and ship to a 2100 owner who seeks improvement by opening a package and dropping in a part...
Not many will have the facilities or capabilities to implement your mods.
DO keep up the good work !! i always enjoy seeing what you have made!

Best solution might be to swap the piston for the 362 aluminum version and seal up the leaks etc.
Keep it low cost/effort for the highest bang for the buck.
The 2100 and its variants all have the same issues.
Split receiver, plastic bolt, mediocre trigger, etc.

To be honest I don't make parts to sell.
Being retired I have lots of time to tinker.
I like to experiment and see how much can be improved over the original design.
I've been working on a few HP pumpers and should be posting here soon.

My intent has always been to help owners of these ( and mostly Daisy 880 series) either improve their
rifles or, in some cases, get them shooting again by furnishing parts long since out of production.

This 2100 bolt was done by request from an owner.
The 362 pump rod is better than the Legacy 1000 part as the 362 rod has a delrin bushing at the pivot end........
This eliminates the metal to metal scraping of the pump tube.
The bushings are available and can be added to the Legacy part, but lathe work is required..

I actually have a aluminum body bolt that someone made.
Very nice part, but would be pricey.....

[anti-squirrel]

Timely thread.  I was gifted a non-running 2100 this weekend and need to dig further into it.

[Ronno6]

Timely thread.  I was gifted a non-running 2100 this weekend and need to dig further into it.

I am intimately familiar with them.......glad to offer assistance if needed.....

[anti-squirrel]

Timely thread.  I was gifted a non-running 2100 this weekend and need to dig further into it.

I am intimately familiar with them.......glad to offer assistance if needed.....

I may be taking you up on that.  Not ready to tackle it yet (maybe this upcoming weekend), but it will happen.  First thing I have to do is make sure I reassembled it properly after re-attaching the pump cup/seal. 

[anti-squirrel]

The 2100 I was given from my brother in law (wouldn't shoot, wouldn't pump) is likely on the verge of being wrapped around an F'ing tree trunk.

I'm sure they use a jig for assembly, but I tell ya what... these crapola disposable airguns of plastic and zymac (or what pseudo-metal is used) give me fits.  I can understand wanting to get more out of what is really a $20 pile of low-quality metal and fragile plastics... but at this point, I cannot see myself investing in anything else Crosman-related, ever again.  I've rebuilt/re-barreled a number of 13xx, 2240, 2400s, and 760s, but this 2100 is just an abortion of a design. 

Re-assembling these is a nightmare.

[Ronno6]

The 2100 I was given from my brother in law (wouldn't shoot, wouldn't pump) is likely on the verge of being wrapped around an F'ing tree trunk.

I'm sure they use a jig for assembly, but I tell ya what... these crapola disposable airguns of plastic and zymac (or what pseudo-metal is used) give me fits.  I can understand wanting to get more out of what is really a $20 pile of low-quality metal and fragile plastics... but at this point, I cannot see myself investing in anything else Crosman-related, ever again.  I've rebuilt/re-barreled a number of 13xx, 2240, 2400s, and 760s, but this 2100 is just an abortion of a design. 

Re-assembling these is a nightmare.

Well, yes...and not so much..
Once you figure a way to keep the barrel and pump tube in the proper orientation to the receiver half, it ain't too bad....
I built a crude but effective jig to do that.
Then, once you put the non-bolt side receiver half on, nudge the safety button into its hole in the other half, and it will practically jump together !!
Make sure you DON'T FORGET the lever retainer button thingy under the pump tube at the front of the receiver....(Ask me how I know..)

Before trashing it, I would send you a shipping label........

[avator]

I learned to use a couple small blocks of wood and line the clam halves with drill bits.
It's been some time and I would probably need to refresh myself on the method.
At one time I had the blocks of wood and drill bits set aside in a determined location on my tinker bench.
That was several tinker benches ago.

[Ronno6]

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=crosman+2100+assenbling&atb=v375-1&iax=videos&ia=videos&iai=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D8x_M0s82EJc

I found the biggest pain to be re-inserting the pump pivot roll pin...
I have a new chain break to try for that task....

[anti-squirrel]

I ended up removing the biggest offender and tossing it: the stupid BB spring and "bolt", along with that pathetic deformed washer for the safety.  I never use the safety on a single-shot pellet gun, which this now is.  I'll never shoot BBs out of it- that's for sure.

I took a few shots at 30 yards using 7.9 Crosman wadcutters, and on 3 pumps was nailing a 8-ounce RedBull can every shot.  Considering the condition of the front sight (worn on one side where it was wedged between a wall and some storage bins) I'm content.  I pumped to 7 and 8 pumps a few times- missed the can, but again, small can, not sighted in... and with a stiff crosswind AND sun my eyes.  I'm not going to complain too loudly considering this pumper was free.  The accuracy (based on condition of leade, crown, and rifling) should be very good if I judge by my other Crosman barrels.  I'll break out some .177 RWS Meisterkugeln wadcutters this week and see about sighting in with a scope, likely one of my fixed 4x scopes.  Zamac (or whatever they are) clamshell dovetails are far better than plastic clamshells.


Additional note: the first few times I pumped while disassembled, I heard air leaking.  I pumped to 4 pumps, then manually trigged the hammer (smacked it with a screwdriver shaft) after 3 tries the leaking reduced to a faint hiss.  I then pumped to 6 pumps and released the hammer then again at 8 and it stopped leaking.  I flipped the gasket from the pump tube to the barrel for a better seal, and now the little throwaway 2100 could be used for bird and likely squirrel/chipper duty.  I'll only use it for cans, though. 

The ergonomics are far better than the 760, but the 760 is easier to re-barrel and assemble.  Speaking of which, I gave away my last remaining 760 pumper to my neighbor for her 7-year-old son (she just lost her job and funds are tight).  So of course what happens?  A different neighbor gives me yet another 760- rusty barrel, very worn rifling, but black metal receiver with brown plastic stock and pump handle.  The pump falls open when held barrel pointed down, closes all the way when held the opposite.  This is now the 8th or 9th 760 pumper project I've been given since I joined the GTA. 

[Ronno6]

I gave away my last remaining 760 pumper to my neighbor for her 7-year-old son (she just lost her job and funds are tight).   

Was that a trade??