Main page of ARH's website says "Our target audience is skilled gunsmiths and airgunsmiths. So we supply no instructions or advice on assembly, dis-assembly or exploded diagrams or "how to" books or files. Thank You!"To answer your question, yes, the jar that came with the kit is heavy tar for the spring. No idea what the vortek grease is.You can find alot of videos, pictures and guides on here about how to lube your air rifle, which greases to use, etc. Avoid getting any lubricant in front of your piston seal, and remember less is more.
Main page of ARH's website says "Our target audience is skilled gunsmiths and airgunsmiths. So we supply no instructions or advice on assembly, dis-assembly or exploded diagrams or "how to" books or files. Thank You!"
Out of curiosity, what is the composition of the Vortek grease?Also, in some of the European videos I've seen them use a lubricant called Mona Lisa. What is that?
I emphatically agree with EM. Use the kit with very light amounts of the Vortek grease on the spring and guide. Just a tiny smear around the seal sides and ends of the piston. Make sure you mop out all the old grease with a paper towel wrapped around a stick first. A little brake parts cleaner on the towel's end will help. Very critical not to have any grease old or new in front of that seal.You're lucky your seal came out perfect. Most are cut like this by the cocking slot on the way in.
Krytox / Ultimox are shockingly expensive, especially coming from across an ocean. But a tiny amount makes everything that needs to very slippery, so it evens out.I feel the biggest if with the Krytox / Ultimox is the need for absolutely thorough removal of the dino oil that was in the gun previously. A simple degreasing job doesn't cut it. The worst place inside a springer in this regard is the bottom seam of the compression chamber, which in most guns is porous / ragged and hides tiny amounts of previous lube very efficiently, while being situated in the absolutely worst place for combustion / cross-contamination, or at the end of the comp tube. Just slightly contaminated Krytox / Ultimox turns sticky, and enables dieseling.
Quote from: Toxylon on February 17, 2024, 10:27:11 AMKrytox / Ultimox are shockingly expensive, especially coming from across an ocean. But a tiny amount makes everything that needs to very slippery, so it evens out.I feel the biggest if with the Krytox / Ultimox is the need for absolutely thorough removal of the dino oil that was in the gun previously. A simple degreasing job doesn't cut it. The worst place inside a springer in this regard is the bottom seam of the compression chamber, which in most guns is porous / ragged and hides tiny amounts of previous lube very efficiently, while being situated in the absolutely worst place for combustion / cross-contamination, or at the end of the comp tube. Just slightly contaminated Krytox / Ultimox turns sticky, and enables dieseling.Yup!When I switched over to Krytox, i squirted brake cleaner into the comp tube and wiped it out with paper towels wrapped around a dowel, THREE times. I has to be absolutely clean.-Yogi
I've tuned a few guns, all of them with Krytox. I clean the compression chamber and hone using dawn dish soap as the swarf solution and then re-lubed with Krytox and have had zero issues with globes.....Just cleaning with hot soapy water...
I have an ARH spring kit for my Weihrauch HW50S. The original seal came out in perfect condition so I'm going to reuse it. My question is about how to lube it.The kit came with a little jar of what I think must be heavy tar. I also have a small container of Vortek grease from a gun I did a few years ago. I think I will use the Vortek grease on the spring guide and seal, and a thin coating of the tar on the spring. Does all this make sense?I find it odd that the ARH kit comes with no instructions or recommendations. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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