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Three Maxim inspired short, fat LDCs: .177 / .22 / .25

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subscriber:
Jack,

Stacked baffles where the user can vary the length are a great idea.  Also, because each print is only one baffle tall, you have a much shorter print time and smaller material use, should any given print fail. 

Are the parts in your image injection molded plastic, or metal?

It is possible to stack this design concept.  I have done similar stacked designs that live inside a shroud.  As the intent now, is to make the baffles strong enough to live outside a tube, my concern is droop at each joint, leading to misalignment with the barrel. 

Now, if the baffle is half as long as its diameter stability should be improved.  Also, I think I would include conical nesting features that forces strong concentricity and angular alignment.  The threads would need to be robust for 3D printed parts, and they may take a fair amount of room. 

Now you have given me a challenge....

jackssmirkingrevenge:

--- Quote from: subscriber on November 08, 2022, 04:27:45 PM ---you have a much shorter print time and smaller material use, should any given print fail.
--- End quote ---
 

Anyone who's ever used a 3D printer will certainly welcome that ;D


--- Quote ---Are the parts in your image injection molded plastic, or metal?
--- End quote ---

Machined metal to my knowledge, but if you look up the SIG MODX series they use a similar design and are 3D printed in titanium.


--- Quote ---my concern is droop at each joint, leading to misalignment with the barrel.
--- End quote ---
 

Look up the "Demolition Ranch" channel on YouTube, they went crazy with stacking a similar model and even with metal parts it look a remarkable amount of segments before they got a baffle strike.


--- Quote ---Now, if the baffle is half as long as its diameter stability should be improved.  Also, I think I would include conical nesting features that forces strong concentricity and angular alignment.  The threads would need to be robust for 3D printed parts, and they may take a fair amount of room.
--- End quote ---

You could also avoid threads and instead clamp the segments together using long bolts, if you look up the SilencerCo Osprey Micro it uses this method.

subscriber:
Jack,

Thanks for your input.  Translated: I need to use a generous baffle bore diameter for caliber, to allow some misalignment.  After all, I am not printing the parts and not screwing them together.

Will check out demoranch.   That guy does crazy stuff that often seems wasteful to me, but destructive testing can teach one a lot.

Bolting together segments is another option, but unless you know how long a stack you want to use, the bolts have to enter at an angle, so each joint is bolted separately.   In contrast to that, your original suggestion has so much value that exploring and developing that stands out as the most obvious design path: 

Perhaps inch long baffles that can be screwed onto each other.  If four are not long enough, then try 6 or 8...  The front and rear caps are obviously unique parts; so a set would be distinct STL files per caliber, with multiple copies printed of the "middle" baffle.

customcutter:
Thanks, Sub:

I downloaded the files.  Does that mean I'm going to get a visit???

subscriber:
Ken,

At this point, having information contained in a patent from 1909 is still allowed:  https://patents.google.com/patent/US916885A/en?oq=916885 




It is what you do with it that might bring a visit.  Keep it off PBs - unless you got the paperwork approved first.

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