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All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General > 3D printing and files

3D printing tips and trick.

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Insanity:
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rsterne:
Here is a little trick I came up with for causing a bridge above a shouldered hole, where the diameter steps down and the OD of the new wall is smaller than the ID of the larger hole, so there would be no support for the wall of the smaller hole above the larger one.... I can't print it the other way up, so I made the "hole" for the shouldered (lower) part and the "hole" for the smaller (upper) part separate (instead of joining them into one object), and separated them vertically by 0.1mm.... I then joined them into one "object" that you can move to where you need it.... This means you can't "see through" the hole, and Cura prints a single layer bridge between the upper and lower holes, which you can easily drill through.... Here are the screenshots of the layers, in the order printed (bottom to top).... Layer "X" is the shouldered (lower) portion, in this case a hex recess for a nut, Layer "X+1" shows the bridge, and Layer "X+2" shows the first layer above the bridge....

Layer X



Layer X+1



Layer X+2



It worked a treat!....

Bob

FastEddie:
Of course, Klipper. But other than Klipper, the next best thing to have is a nozzle cam. Here I have the 3DO Nozzle Cam installed in a Stealthburner hot end, but I have used inexpensive endoscope/snake cams on my previous printers (CR-10S, Anet A8). I am so lost without one...they are indispensable for troubleshooting print problems and dialing in a new filament, especially making changes to the z-offset on the fly. I am using ASA filament and it doesn't still well to my magnetic PEI sheet unless it is "squished" down correctly.

I have a screen grab on Imgur but can't figure out how to post it. Trust me on this, you need a nozzle cam.

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