Sheridan Bluestreak repair

[OleTomCat]

I bought a Sheridan Bluestreak, .20cal back in the late 80's and used it for all kinds of fun for more than 15 years.  My son and stepson were staying with me over the summer and I let them shoot while I was at work.  I never really inspected the gun while they were using it and didn't notice until some time later that one of them had acually pulled up on the bolt so hard that they seperated it from the main tube which made cocking the rigle nearly impossible....

Do anyone know if this is repairable?  I will take a few pictures when I get home and post them up as a follow up...

[breakfastchef]

What you describe does not sound good. Anytime the soldering between the barrel/breech and the pump tube is compromised, you have a difficult repair on your hands. My best recommendation would be to contact Ron Sauls at Bryan & Associates. Ron has forgotten more about classic airguns than I will likely ever learn and could advise you as to options for repair. http://www.airgunbna.com/

[TimmyMac1]

Barrel separation is a very common thing in the Late 70's to late 80's dans. The rear sight is manufacturered from spring steel and it puts constant pressure on the 50/50 (soft) solder joint between tube and barrel causing it to eventually fail just like the lead in the Vatican windows needs to be redone periodically. Lead is Maleable but not Ductile(still strong in a rearranged state) so it's rearrangement is commonplace to be associated with sustained degradation of structure through fracture of the bonding material. In the case of the Stained leaded glass it is Gravity that provides the force for the fliud motion and in the case of the Dan rear sight it's force to keep it from moving around if rubbed against something is great enough to eventually compromise the solder joint and continue to dregrade it till the breech pops loose. Nobody ever notices till the thing pops completely loose but any 77-89 vintage gun that has gone through a lot of heat cycles(barn or garage gun) will normally SHOW SIGNS OF EARLY SEPARATION AND IF THE REAR SIGHT IS REMOVED IT WILL NOT GET WORSE.
Anyone with a Rear sight that is not mounted with set screws or glued on by throwing the wedges away and JB welding the rear sight in place is at risk including any of the guns made since 1990. Since it normally takes 15-20 years for these things to show up the 90's vintage guns will not start to see the problem for another half a decade.
For grins put your solder joint up to the light test and see if there is any evidence of the issue starting to appear. Just hold the gunj in front of a Bright light and if you see light you need to fit a Williams now (or JB weld the rear sight to the barrel)and get the Rear Sight mounting wedges out of there before your breech is separated along with the mid barrel. If you catch it before it starts to leak air at the transfer port it normally will never get any worse. If you let it go there is no choice but to solder action. Finish on Silver streaks is kept as original as possible and the Blue streaks get repainted. Solder jobs add about $25 to a normal repair which runs from $75-95. Buzz bomb shake can flat black no extra charge. Imron Paint after solder $30.
I do about one steroid a day. I do about one solder job per week so it is a very high percentage of the early guns that need some soldering and others are getting something to avoid it in the future, if only to pop the rear off, stretch it and reinstall.
The numbers are not a representation of what is out there, just what is getting worked on by me. Few others offer soldering and refinishing so I get most of that work.
You can zip tie the thing down to get it to cock put I think it is time for service or to at least take that one out of harms way. Please do not JB weld the solder joint and then send it to me. If it got that treatment the gun is a right off as far as I'm concerned. It is too much of a hassle to try to fix it.

[OleTomCat]

I had been holding things in place with large red zip ties for a few years now, but have put it back in the closet since I recieved my Silent Cat last year for Christmas, from the stepson, but I want to look into getting it back to it's original condition so my grandson can use it in a few years..

[OleTomCat]

Finally got some pictures taken:

[OleTomCat]

Tim can you tell by the pictures if it is reparable?

[TimmyMac1]

Tim can you tell by the pictures if it is reparable?

There should be no problem getting it repaired. Solder jobs are routine stuff for Mac1.

Later

TimmyMac1

[OleTomCat]

Tim can you tell by the pictures if it is reparable?

There should be no problem getting it repaired. Solder jobs are routine stuff for Mac1.

Later

TimmyMac1

Ok, send me a Direct Message with info on where to send it and I will get it out right after the new year...

Thanks
Al

[TimmyMac1]

Mac1 Airgun
13974 Van Ness Ave.
Gardena, CA 90249-2900

REMOVE BUTT STOCK and send action only. Takes 10 weeks normally.

Later

TimmyMac1

[OleTomCat]

Mac1 Airgun
13974 Van Ness Ave.
Gardena, CA 90249-2900

REMOVE BUTT STOCK and send action only. Takes 10 weeks normally.

Later

TimmyMac1

Thanks Timmy,

What does it usually cost to restore these to their original state?  I know the solder job, $25.00, but what about everything else you can do to it?

[TimmyMac1]

I thought this was a Instant message at first. I answered it and then realized I posted it to the Benj/Crosman section. You need to go to the Dealer gates to get Price Quotes. They don't want any of our business transactions to be on the main Gates. No Talking $,

Later

Tim

[OleTomCat]

I thought this was a Instant message at first. I answered it and then realized I posted it to the Benj/Crosman section. You need to go to the Dealer gates to get Price Quotes. They don't want any of our business transactions to be on the main Gates. No Talking $,

Later

Tim

Ok, than just send me a direct message.