Ok, I've got two problems:1. The transfer port between the valve TP and the barrel is machined into the breech block. It appears to be a solid piece that cannot be accessed except by drilling through the second set screw hole that holds the barrel in place. Am I missing something? The green circle on the diagram marks the area I'm talking about. How do I drill that out without ruining the set screw hole? 2. My gun does not have the factory drilled and tapped M4 holes behind the bolt for adding the re-enforcement bar. Any ideas? Also, my valve does indeed have the newer angled port. Would you recommend keeping the angle or drilling straight down and doing away with angle and then dremmeling out the hard edges?
My specialty store didn't have the 7mm tap. I'm going to use a 17/64 bit which roughly equals 6.7mm.I would like to replace the nicked TP/breech orings. Does anyone know what size they are? I've read contradictory sizes in forums searches.Also, a more serious problem I've found is that the reason the hammer is skipping forward of the lever sometimes isn't because the sear is being set too light, but because the pin that connects the lever to the top of the hammer is worn really bad to the point that its sloped on one side and allowing the hammer to slide out of its grip. I bought this gun refurbished from PA. So far I'm not impressed by its "refurbishment". Nicked orings and a bad hammer pin would equal an headache for someone. Its not a huge deal for me, as I bought the gun with the purpose of making a project out of it. but it would be a bummer for someone who doesn't want to tear into the gun. Unless someone has an extra pin laying around they'd let me take off their hands, I'll have to try making one. I'll also try reversing and/or flipping this pin upside down to see if it will work that way.
I bet someone fired the gun with lever not fully closed causing the hammer to hit the pin. The pin itself doesn't have to be uber hard in material as it is only used to pull back the hammer (IIRC).
QuoteI bet someone fired the gun with lever not fully closed causing the hammer to hit the pin. The pin itself doesn't have to be uber hard in material as it is only used to pull back the hammer (IIRC).Yep or someone bound up preload by screwing it in to far and/or coil bound the spring then forcing the lever trying to cock the gun. I've slammed my hammer a few times into that pin without any damage. Who knows what happens to the guns returned in the 30 grace period other than we all pay the price for them.Tom
Quote from: Bullfrog on May 26, 2015, 05:23:47 PMMy specialty store didn't have the 7mm tap. I'm going to use a 17/64 bit which roughly equals 6.7mm.I would like to replace the nicked TP/breech orings. Does anyone know what size they are? I've read contradictory sizes in forums searches.Also, a more serious problem I've found is that the reason the hammer is skipping forward of the lever sometimes isn't because the sear is being set too light, but because the pin that connects the lever to the top of the hammer is worn really bad to the point that its sloped on one side and allowing the hammer to slide out of its grip. I bought this gun refurbished from PA. So far I'm not impressed by its "refurbishment". Nicked orings and a bad hammer pin would equal an headache for someone. Its not a huge deal for me, as I bought the gun with the purpose of making a project out of it. but it would be a bummer for someone who doesn't want to tear into the gun. Unless someone has an extra pin laying around they'd let me take off their hands, I'll have to try making one. I'll also try reversing and/or flipping this pin upside down to see if it will work that way. O-ring, 16mm ID - 2mm thick as measured from my extra valve block. You can't tap a 7mm hole with M7 threads as the tap will fall straight through, you need M8 threads for that as M8 uses 7mm pilot hole. Equally you need something bigger than 7mm in inch sizes assuming that 6.7mm is the OD of those threads. I bet someone fired the gun with lever not fully closed causing the hammer to hit the pin. The pin itself doesn't have to be uber hard in material as it is only used to pull back the hammer (IIRC).
Update... I got the ports drilled out today to 6.7 and the breech set screw tapped out. Concerning the link pin, I can't figure out how to reproduce the small ring around the middle of the pin that holds it in place and stops it from falling out. I talked to PA and they can get me one as well as a Sniper lever. No word yet on the cost of the pin, the lever is $35. They also sent me an English parts diagram that I'll post up. Its the first English Evanix diagram I've seen.