OK,So I guess I pulled a brainfart before reading all of the replies,...and I went and bought the bearings this morning, before verifying exactly which trigger this gun has. So $7.00 wasted,... oh well Anyway, thank you to Mobilehomer for the trigger tutorial. I did go to the Hardware store today and picked up some nylon washers and a lighter trigger spring. I cut the new spring to the same length as the factory spring and installed it.... I also did the polishing and lubing as suggested in the tutorial.Much improved now, but the spring I bought seems to be a tad too light. It cocks and sets the sear just fine,.. but I did notice that it is not quite strong enough to push the trigger back forward, through the first stage.in other words,... When I pull the trigger through the FIRST Stage,...and STOP at Second Stage,... (and then DO NOT fire the gun) ... if I try to release the pressure, ( to allow the trigger to go back forward), it will not go back forward.There is not quite enough spring tension,(with the new weaker spring), to push it back forward. I hope that makes sense.Anyway, I think tomorrow, I may try another length of the weaker spring, (Cut it a couple of coils Longer), To see if that will remedy the above described issue,But STILL KEEP THE OVERALL LIGHTER Trigger Pull tension.If that does not work,... then I will look for a SLIGHTLY stiffer spring.Thanks for all your help so far, and I will post results when I get it all dialed in.
NONE of these can be used with the NP2 trigger. It is a different design. The only help is to smooth, lube and install a CBR trigger. It comes with a lighter spring.
The CBR will help you tighten up your groups, but what your targets are showing to me is what is called Vertical Stringing which is indicative of wide variation in Muzzle Velocity from shot to shot. This is normally caused by either a bad breach seal or a bad main seal...One other thing not related to vertical stringing is the pivot washers are still made out of plastic and need to be replaced.
Quote from: OleTomCat on May 23, 2017, 02:33:59 PMThe CBR will help you tighten up your groups, but what your targets are showing to me is what is called Vertical Stringing which is indicative of wide variation in Muzzle Velocity from shot to shot. This is normally caused by either a bad breach seal or a bad main seal...One other thing not related to vertical stringing is the pivot washers are still made out of plastic and need to be replaced.thank you for the reply.I will try to get a shot string across the chrony later today to verify velocity consistency. will also do the "tissue test" on the breech seal, and if found leaking, maybe stack a little dental floss under it.does anyone know what the correct size is for the brass washers replacement ? I'm heading to the hardware/Home Depot today anyway, so I might as well pick those up while I am there.Thanks
Quote from: Gertrude on May 23, 2017, 04:46:08 PMQuote from: OleTomCat on May 23, 2017, 02:33:59 PMThe CBR will help you tighten up your groups, but what your targets are showing to me is what is called Vertical Stringing which is indicative of wide variation in Muzzle Velocity from shot to shot. This is normally caused by either a bad breach seal or a bad main seal...One other thing not related to vertical stringing is the pivot washers are still made out of plastic and need to be replaced.thank you for the reply.I will try to get a shot string across the chrony later today to verify velocity consistency. will also do the "tissue test" on the breech seal, and if found leaking, maybe stack a little dental floss under it.does anyone know what the correct size is for the brass washers replacement ? I'm heading to the hardware/Home Depot today anyway, so I might as well pick those up while I am there.Thanks5/16 Thrust Washer from my understanding. You then sand it to teh right diameter....