I have been looking all over but can't find what I want. I recently bought a Maximus and want to upgrade the trigger. I have already added the 2 screw mod and it was a great improvment but I have been looking at the ALLIANCE HOBY brass trigger and the BAKER AIRGUNS brass trigger.Can anyone give a review, feedback on either trigger? Are the triggers smoother, lighter, more crisp or give a better clean break?What type of effect have you seen with your accuracy?Thanks,Shadowshot.
The Baker Airgun brass trigger is excellent.http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=106061.0$22 less 10% discount to GTA members plus shipping makes it about $29 delivered.Polish with Brasso or Flitz to make it look like gold, works good, looks good, feels good.
Moving the pivot point on the link forward reduces the trigger pull when moving the sear, but increases the travel.... If you replace the coil spring behind the trigger with a lighter one, and make no other changes, you will immediately notice what feels like a 2-stage trigger, first as you compress the coil spring, and then as the link moves the sear which is loaded by the hairpin style spring.... If you install the upper back screw, as you screw it in, you will be tilting the trigger, moving the blade back at the bottom and shortening what you are perceiving as the 1st stage.... Eventually you will have no 1st stage, only the 2nd, harder stage as you begin to move the sear against the hairpin spring.... It is at this point in the movement that changing the pivot point changes the leverage, reducing the effort but increasing the distance the trigger will move during the second stage.... The lower back screw adjusts only the "over-travel" of the trigger (ie how far it moves after the gun fires).... and THAT is the one that can cause sear drag if set too close.... because it doesn't allow the sear to drop enough to completely clear the hammer.... causing erratic velocities.... DON'T SET IT TOO CLOSE OR YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS....The third, front screw, if installed, requires drilling and tappng another hole in the space between the plastic lug and the front of the link lever, so that you can adjust the position of the front of the link lever.... Screwing it in moves the link up, pressing on the front of the sear, moving the back of the sear down and decreasing the engagement.... Taken to the extreme, it makes the gun unsafe as there is so little engagement that the gun will fire if bumped hard (or won't even cock).... If you redrill the link to move the pivot forward, the 2nd stage gets longer, and although the effort is less, you get a "creepy" trigger, which I find unsatisfactory.... You can compenstate by screwing in the third screw and reducing the sear engagement, but that will eventually make the gun unsafe....So, what is redrilling the link accomplishing?.... It is reducing the 2nd stage pull (a good thing), but it is reducing the sear travel, causing more creep for a given (ie safe) engagement (a bad thing).... Is there a better way?.... IMO, yes, instead of redrilling the link, just reduce the angle between the legs of the hairpin spring about 5 degrees by bending it carefully.... Then you can have a safer sear engagement and yet reduce the weight of the trigger pull during the 2nd stage.... It doesn't take much to drastically change the trigger pull, try it and see.... Use a protractor, or simply draw lines on a piece of paper along the legs of the spring when stock, and then push the legs towards each other until the coils tighten up and the legs are at a slightly tighter angle when relaxed.... The tighter the angle, the less force required during the 2nd stage to move the sear.... Don't go too far, or you may make the trigger unsafe.... mind you it's an easy thing to bend the legs out again to change it....The above assumes that you have replaced the coil spring behind the trigger blade with a lighter one, or you won't even feel the two stages.... I use a coil spring of the same diameter and length but made from 0.020" wire instead of the stock 0.028" wire, and find it just right.... If you want a really light 1st stage, you can go down to 0.016" wire.... Sometimes I don't even bother with the 3rd (front) screw, just replacing the coil spring, bending the hairpin spring, and installing and adjusting the two rear screws makes for quite a nice trigger, particularly for hunting.... For a target gun, adding the 3rd screw to reduce the sear engagement is nice....Bob
The third screw mod requires drilling a hole in front of the trigger guard. The screw is used to adjust sear contact with the hammer. I did it to my maximus. It does make a difference.fSearch disco 3 screw trigger mod on youtube. There's a kid that has a good video of the process.
The lower back screw adjusts only the "over-travel" of the trigger (ie how far it moves after the gun fires).... and THAT is the one that can cause sear drag if set too close.... because it doesn't allow the sear to drop enough to completely clear the hammer.... causing erratic velocities.... DON'T SET IT TOO CLOSE OR YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS....