Plastic barrel band will shift back and forth in the tube thus moving your barrel up and down then your poi. I have not seem much though really. But Id prefer more metal in there since with the plastic you only have the walls of the tube supporting all that pumping force at that hinge point. A brass or alum pivot would add more meat in that area. 'Look almost like you got one of the "brown" barrels. Crosman has been shipping 2 different finishes apparently the brown ones are a better manufacture than the blued/black ones. I would do that steel or brass alum etc breech before doing any bling. It is a huge improvement over the plastic bits. I now have a 4X16 40 ao scope on mine 5yds vs the bugs 3yards but my indoor range is 6~12yards. SO imagine a 2" target filling your objective @10 yards. Bug might be better due to weight. Probably in the looks department too. hahIf your going for larger items power will be on your list, also use heavy pellets. More foot lbs. But reliability and accuracy are important for the small guys. For me I want the ability too shoot their beaks off if need be. My gun how it is now can take mourning doves at about 30yards cleanly. No fly off just swing off the wire and straight down. Only visual clue is sometimes I get feather bomb. Crows and treerats I have taken but not too cleanly. The tral np in 22 dispatched em well but that has the neighbors screaming FIREARMS to the cops. Someone with more exp shooting those with these guns in 177 can chime in. Quote from: cole5169 on June 21, 2011, 11:59:58 AMQuote from: Madkoifish on June 21, 2011, 08:12:32 AMKeeps the rollpin from eating your tube, or possibly damaging the pump arm and tube due to working itself out. Once the roll pin is removed it will never hold like it did from the factory. You also get rid of the "wiggle" and get smoother pumping. I use solid steel rivets from Ace Hardware for my pump-pivot pins. They're like 0.20 cents each, and they slide right in with no machining or reaming to the pump lever holes. It's a slip fit, and they are easy to remove when the pump arm is opened, but they hold tight when the arm is closed. Makes it super easy to work on.yup Im using some sort of nickle plated brass rod drilled out and tapped for now myself, very very temp since the pump arm will eat it some time soon. Holding up fairly well atm but drill rod or something like you listed would work too. I had to shim it though to get rid of the wobble. The wobble is not the grip but the hinge point perpendicular to the tube. The space between the wall of the bands inner fork and the pump arm. I have never seen one of these guns without this wobble unless it was shimmed. But either way point is once that roll pin has been knocked out it will never stay put again. I knocked mine out as smoothly as possible, it would shift after 5 pumps. Friend has one that he left loose and now has ovals for hinge holes.
Quote from: Madkoifish on June 21, 2011, 08:12:32 AMKeeps the rollpin from eating your tube, or possibly damaging the pump arm and tube due to working itself out. Once the roll pin is removed it will never hold like it did from the factory. You also get rid of the "wiggle" and get smoother pumping. I use solid steel rivets from Ace Hardware for my pump-pivot pins. They're like 0.20 cents each, and they slide right in with no machining or reaming to the pump lever holes. It's a slip fit, and they are easy to remove when the pump arm is opened, but they hold tight when the arm is closed. Makes it super easy to work on.
Keeps the rollpin from eating your tube, or possibly damaging the pump arm and tube due to working itself out. Once the roll pin is removed it will never hold like it did from the factory. You also get rid of the "wiggle" and get smoother pumping.
skip the red-dot and buy a leapers 3-9x32 bugbuster scope, its an absolute perfect scope for 13xx carbines,