Going to start casting my own .300 round balls shortlyl Got the mould from Jeff Tanner in the UK. Does any size you want!http://www.jt-bullet-moulds.co.uk/moulds.htmlWill probably get a .250 done next.
Nice reuse of the 12g cart for the ladle.
I'm looking into starting casting for my Condor .25. This is very interesting airgunwarriors. Keep us posted please! Remember, just get more guns if your current one doesn't like the pellets! And that's pretty cool Rick! Keep us posted on your work too!
I have to play devil's advocate here and say that you could buy a lot of pellets for what you are spending to cast your own. Now I can see doing that if you are using larger calibers, like those used in big bore airguns. I wouldn't even consider it for anything smaller than .25, unless money and time are no object for you and you are a purist. For me, it is not something I would consider unless it was the only way I could get ammo. More than likely if that was the case, I'd be selling off my guns and taking up another hobby. I hope it never comes to that.
A few comments on the very nice video re lead temp and casting. I recently started casting my 30 cal. bullets and learned a lot over a few casting sessions and some excellent tips from the guys in the big bore gate. A link to my experiences......... http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=68631.0Pure lead needs to be 850-900* to fill a mold properly. A small tin content, like 1-2%, will help with the flow characteristics and my reduce the required temp some. (I haven't tried tin yet)Molds must be 500-550* to get wrinkle free casts from pure lead. A separate heat source will be required to get the mold to this temp. I used a propane torch.You need to work fast to keep the mold at this temp. Too much time between pours your mold will shed temperature fast and will need to be reheated. I de-mold just after I see the sprue flash over.A lead thermometer is a must.Tom Tom