The 3 layer soda shim worked. I think I may have overdone it, 2 layers probably would have been enough. Was about 6" high at 15 yards. I was able to adjust down. I'm really learning quite a bit about scopes recently. Just recently learned about spring tension and not having any with elevation maxed out. I had no idea that maxing out adjustments would throw your groups off. Better to do large adjustments down than up? What about windage, better left or right? I had to come 3" to the left to get on bullseye.
I don't know that it's as simple as which extreme is better. When the turrets are turned in all the way, the spring(s) may be compressed to the extent that the erector tube experiences sharper recoil. That has been attributed to premature scope failures such as detached reticles. That will not be of particular relevance to a pneumatic rifle (PCP, MSP, SSP), only to spring and gas ram powerplants. Conversely, when the turrets are backed out all the way, the spring(s) may not have enough travel and force to keep the erector tube against the turrets, in which case the erector tube may not settle into the same position after each shot, and so the point of impact may seem to wander...when really it's the point of aim that is wandering.There's no hard and fast rule as to how much adjustment one should be willing use. Design and manufacturing variability of scopes plays a big role, as does the severity of recoil to which the scope will be subjected. Personally, on a heavy recoiling springer (anything more than roughly 18fpe), I prefer to manipulate the mounts or the barrel to keep the scope within 1 full turn of its mechanical center.
Quote from: AKHI on May 03, 2017, 02:06:29 AMThe 3 layer soda shim worked. I think I may have overdone it, 2 layers probably would have been enough. Was about 6" high at 15 yards. I was able to adjust down. I'm really learning quite a bit about scopes recently. Just recently learned about spring tension and not having any with elevation maxed out. I had no idea that maxing out adjustments would throw your groups off. Better to do large adjustments down than up? What about windage, better left or right? I had to come 3" to the left to get on bullseye."Better to do large adjustments down than up?"I always prefer to keep the erector assembly near center to keep it from "floating with recoil" and I don't see where "extreme up or down" would make a difference concerning a floating poi with recoil or keeping the reticle near the scopes "viewing sweet spot".
To compensate for windage, there are 3 usual approaches. Tweak the barrel slightly, use adjustable mounts, or shim the fixed side of the dovetail clamp with strips cut from a soda can.
Quote from: nced on May 03, 2017, 09:45:08 AMQuote from: AKHI on May 03, 2017, 02:06:29 AMThe 3 layer soda shim worked. I think I may have overdone it, 2 layers probably would have been enough. Was about 6" high at 15 yards. I was able to adjust down. I'm really learning quite a bit about scopes recently. Just recently learned about spring tension and not having any with elevation maxed out. I had no idea that maxing out adjustments would throw your groups off. Better to do large adjustments down than up? What about windage, better left or right? I had to come 3" to the left to get on bullseye."Better to do large adjustments down than up?"I always prefer to keep the erector assembly near center to keep it from "floating with recoil" and I don't see where "extreme up or down" would make a difference concerning a floating poi with recoil or keeping the reticle near the scopes "viewing sweet spot".^ ? same to you, how are you keeping windage close to mechanical center?