O.C.D mod number......O.K so this mod is probably useless but the OCD in me will not let it go.I decided to, for lack of a better phrase, Port the transfer port.I wanted to try and limit any unnecessary turbulence in the transfer port while keeping the minimum internal diameter of the port close to original specs. In Theory tapering or porting the intake side of the port should reduce drag and thus reduce turbulence inside of the transfer port allowing a greater volume of air to come under pressure as it exits... In theory but ultimately it's just another way to feed my OCD Also i polished to inside of the port.
Quote from: Oldnoob on March 23, 2014, 06:38:38 PMO.C.D mod number......O.K so this mod is probably useless but the OCD in me will not let it go.I decided to, for lack of a better phrase, Port the transfer port.I wanted to try and limit any unnecessary turbulence in the transfer port while keeping the minimum internal diameter of the port close to original specs. In Theory tapering or porting the intake side of the port should reduce drag and thus reduce turbulence inside of the transfer port allowing a greater volume of air to come under pressure as it exits... In theory but ultimately it's just another way to feed my OCD Also i polished to inside of the port.OleNoob,I have been following your out come of some of the improvements on your gun and well I decided to do a little of my own as well, It seemed I should have been getting more FPS with my stock spring and wasn't, so I removed my barrel and drilled and polished all the port holes and transfer port. Drilled them out to 5/32" and of course had to smooth out some burrs along the way. I am using a 10-32 screw with a bushing inside to put tension on the hammer spring.The first barrel I did was shooting 15.9 grn JSB's with max spring tension at 866 FPS, 14.33 grn Crosman HP's at 910 FPS and Beeman Eco Series-Kodiak green non lead pellets 12.65 grn at 960 fps. then I shot Beeman FTS Field Target Specials copper plated 14.72 grn at 905 FPS. These are the highs in FPS and hold there for the first 10 shots or more, after that they drop about 15 to 50 FPS depending on how far I shoot it down. I started at 2100 PSI and down to 1200 PSI. I am surprised that I get 30 shots and they fall really slow down to the 20th shot. Oh, by the way I am using the Disco Double Tube Kit from Air gun Lab, thats why I get so many shots per fill.The second barrel I did matched the first barrel almost to the tee.Anyway, cleaning up that port and reaming it out a little definitely helped my FPS on stock settings as well as maxing out the hammer spring. There is no way for me to get the magic curve with the load I have on my hammer spring without modding my gun for a higher pressure. So, the next step for me is to back it off a little and get the magic shot string back in. Good luck and thanks for some of the ideas,William
....Anyway, cleaning up that port and reaming it out a little definitely helped my FPS on stock settings as well as maxing out the hammer spring. There is no way for me to get the magic curve with the load I have on my hammer spring without modding my gun for a higher pressure. So, the next step for me is to back it off a little and get the magic shot string back in. Good luck and thanks for some of the ideas,William
You guys,I also went with a P-rod gauge block and gauge. The P-rod block has much better flow due to it being a lot more---open...but I also went the Power Path, too. I still get good shot count, around 20 good---2000psi to 1300.
Quote from: Joe-Monkeydad1969 on March 23, 2014, 10:14:06 PMYou guys,I also went with a P-rod gauge block and gauge. The P-rod block has much better flow due to it being a lot more---open...but I also went the Power Path, too. I still get good shot count, around 20 good---2000psi to 1300.Joe,, what are we looking at in the first picture, striker and gauge fitting?
OK, at first glance this mod may seem silly, but let me tell you, polishing the sear and connecting points in the trigger linkage made a huge difference in trigger smoothness. It's a mod thats well worth the effort. polishing the area where the Torsion spring pushes and rides on the sear is very important. Polishing combined with a hair of slide grease to those connecting points, well , its a vast difference than stock.Also: Though not pictured here, i replaced the coil spring that presses on the plastic trigger with a weaker spring. This yielded more of a two stage, less "spongy" feeling on the trigger while not weakening the sears' force on the striker.
Took a moment to examine the input port on the barrel and noticed a burr edge on the orifice inside of the barrel. So i took one of my jewelers files and with a pulling motion smoothed down the burr and then polished out the edge. It's important to use only a pulling stroke to avoid putting a wire edge inside of the barrel.Some may wonder why im not using a Dremel or rotary tool for many of these modifications. Well i tend to find that i over compensate when i use power-tools in delicate important areas.
I also took a flat file to the breech end of the barrel and removed some material in an effort to create a stronger lockup of the bolt/probe. Got the idea off the TKO22 site. Didn't really remove enough - made a very slight difference.Steve
Quote from: sr1sws on March 24, 2014, 11:35:14 PMI also took a flat file to the breech end of the barrel and removed some material in an effort to create a stronger lockup of the bolt/probe. Got the idea off the TKO22 site. Didn't really remove enough - made a very slight difference.SteveThats interesting, i would be afraid of causing a misalignment of the transfer point if too much was removed. Ill have to explore that.
BLING!
I'd be interested in knowing how much the brake reduces the sound level. I currently have a 5.5" TKO Level V LDC on my Disco.Have you thought about where you're placing the 2 barrel bands? I have one just ahead of the pressure gauge - requires splitting the barrel sleeve/rear sight mount. The front one is currently mid-way between the forearm and the end of the air tube. I actually did a test this past weekend, "tromboning" the band back and forth one band-width at a time. I've not had a chance to see if the results are repeatable - that is, does it shoot as good today as it did when I stopped on Sunday. Maybe I'll make a post on my results.Steve
Quote from: sr1sws on March 25, 2014, 05:51:54 PMI'd be interested in knowing how much the brake reduces the sound level. I currently have a 5.5" TKO Level V LDC on my Disco.Have you thought about where you're placing the 2 barrel bands? I have one just ahead of the pressure gauge - requires splitting the barrel sleeve/rear sight mount. The front one is currently mid-way between the forearm and the end of the air tube. I actually did a test this past weekend, "tromboning" the band back and forth one band-width at a time. I've not had a chance to see if the results are repeatable - that is, does it shoot as good today as it did when I stopped on Sunday. Maybe I'll make a post on my results.SteveI would be interested in your results as wellI doubt the muzzle brake will effect the noise level very much, Though it is a two part threaded piece that will accept a air riffle "S-word". ( NO! not that S-word, the other S-word!) Noise level is not a main concern for me because i don't shoot within city limits and im 75% deaf, so i just go out to the county, turn off my hearing aids and plink away. I've noticed the stock band would pull the barrel down so i modified the bands to correct that i may have to do that mod on the brass bands as well. I will log it here if i do.
Humm,,, definite machining work on the brake in the near future
I have seen several pictures of the fill caps that were machined to fit under the end piece.