Moderators/Professional Tuners, help!!

[ivanpros]

So far it shows less is best; is this correct? (less lube and clean innards?)

[Mark 611]

yes!

[thekid]

Good to see you got her all straightened out.
You got the second stage of the addiction going strong...tuning.
Rob

[Hassan]

WOW! Those JSB Heavy's and FTS are one hole groups! I shoot the FTS out of my TF 97 .22 and get the same results at 15yds freehand!

Congrats on having the gun running the way you want it!

[microsalmo]

Hey Guys,

Thanks so much for helping me out with this debacle.  It seems so juvenile but I really wanted to make this gun a shooter, and it was frustrating the heck out of me.... guess I need to get a life, eh 

I couldn't say just what fixed it because I started from scratch after I tore it down, and implemented most all of your suggestions.  After the tear down, I took the compression tube outside and blasted it out with half a can of brake cleaner.  Then I debured all the slots & holes again using 400 grit sandpaper & later a rubberized dremel cone.  Then I wrapped 400 grit around a half inch dowel and went to work in the inside of the cocking slots some more.  Then the fine emery went around a 1" dowel and i did the entire compression tube, following up with the 400 on the same 1" dowel.  After a good rinse in hot water & simple green, and a flush with hot water, I got out the hone again.

I made 15 passes with the 220 hone while the compression tube was dunked in the hot water & simple green, focusing on trying to keep the cuts at 45 degrees to the tube.  After a solid rinse in hot clean water, I blasted the compression tube out with brake cleaner again, and let it dry.

I lightly sanded the piston again with 400 grit, and washed it just as did the tube... first in the soapy water, followed by a rinse in hot water, then with the brake cleaner.  It got a new Maccaari seal too, which I installed with a dab of Superlube to make it slip on without damage.

The barrel, I scrubbed with JB Non Embeding Bore Cleaner (again) & a brass brush.  20 passes followed by a good cleaning with Googone soaked patches, and then dry patches.

I applied Maccari Moly to the the right areas of the piston & seal sides and reassembled the gun.  I also tried this moly on the brass breech pivot washers.  When I reinstalled the shroud this time, I just barely snugged it down, and secured it with more thread locker.  A drop of Remoil on a few hinges, and the proper washing of any threaded areas with alcohol, and I was about done.  I applied thread locker in the right areas, and set everything aside to dry for 48 hours.

What can I say... it came out good.  I put a few hundred more rounds through it today, and I just got smoother & smoother.

I'm eager to get it outside for some 25 yard + shooting.

Thank you all so much for coming to my rescue on this project.   

[cell]

I duno...you didn't hit any of the targets. You sure its fixed





Glad you got er working. This thread kinda makes me want to take another rifle apart just for the heck of it lol.

Patrick

[microsalmo]

Lol, was a bit shaky that day.  On a serious note, I was using a 10 meter minimum AO scope at 21', so my cross hairs were dancing around a bit.  I can't wait to get outside with this thing.

If this thread got you excited to tackle another project.... check out part two with the Chrony results.  Woa, was I shocked!!  http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php/topic,25575.new.html#new

[kmiJ]

I would be very interested as to what you think finally fixed your problem also. Still having a few issues with my Trail NP as well. This has been a very informative post and I have soaked in a bunch of info...

[microsalmo]

jim, i can give you an educated guess, but i really dont know for sure. The evidence sugguets that there were a few things hurting me.

One, too much silicone lube, causing some light dieseling. I used superlube in super sparing quantities to aid in sliding the new piston/seal into place. It slipped right in, but i believe it pushed all the lube forward into the chamber as it scraped the walls clean.  The light smoke and continued poor accuracy pointed to this issue.

Two, continued scouring of the piston seal. I believe i finally fixed this by deburing again... AND by sanding the tube with a dowel & 400 grit.  It was suggested I hone with hot soapy water, so i did. This must have washed away any grit in the tube, as well as knocked down any high spots. I followed up with a hot water flush & half a can of brake clean.  So im betting there was no residual junk in my tube to abrade the new seal. And it was a bugger to install, so I know it was squeeky clean.

Three, with the presence of dieseling, im sure my barrel was lined with lube. Goo gone, jb bore cleaner, and a brass brush ensured it was all out. 

Four, I secured the shroud - just a little snug, and locked it down with blue locktite. It was said that overtightening here could throw off your groups as it torqued on the barrel.  So i made sure it was not overtightened.

Thats all i really did different from the last few go arounds... and it got fixed. So your guess is as good as mine.

[Mark 611]

Theirs no guess work here you took the advice of those who know and put it to use and you see the results!

[microsalmo]

Theirs no guess work here you took the advice of those who know and put it to use and you see the results!

Exactly what i did. Research, and apply. There is no shortage of members willing to help here. 

[Dockey 454]

Being fairly new to air guns, I have been watching this subject progress. This was a little over my head, so I had no input to offer. The mechanical part of this is easy for me. The lubrication part confused me some. Wanted to say I just learned a ton from you guys Thanks.

[WHITEFANG]

A little lube is always better than No lube. Applying the correct lube to the right areas is even more important. Congrates!!

[microsalmo]

... it would be interesting to use a 400 grit hone as a comparrison. Or maybe the 220 followed by the 400? I found a 400 at NAPA for $18   

I wonder what effect it would have on things?

Thanks for following along and for participating guys.

[Mark 611]

never use anything but a 400grt in the compression tube JMO

[WHITEFANG]

That or scotch brite pads. Light on the metal. Chambers are soft metal.

[microsalmo]

Cool. I think I'll try the 400 on my airhawk rebuild & report back.

[Mike 4888blues]

  I had the Benjamin trail, it shot the same way  I returned it. I  will never look back either !
 I am no expert but I am thinking the rifle barrel and its  internal twist & its crown is what causes  most of  the accuracy,  so  if your seal shows scratches that more likely to cause  different reduction in your fps, but  I don't see why that would change accuracy  at normal distances ,
 the beeman R9 it does not have high fps but its very accurate.
 also If using a brake hone is  so precarious  , why bother. a wooden dowel and different grades of  and paper should do a good  cross hatching .

I learned a lot  from this post thread / I often wonder how a seal  doesn't remove most of the lube  because of  its almost srynge  like in the tube.

molly paste makes sense to me apparently when u cant see it its still there

 Good  luck with your rifle , please let us know how you made out.
 Monday my new Hastan 95 .22  is coming Turkish walnut.
 ordered a J m seal and I already know  i will have  to mod the piston button  now that  is one gorgeous  rifle. very, very accurate/ I only hope the new seal is going to  be just right!