Author Topic: B2-1 Adventures (Read 1275 times)

jmdavis984 · « **on:** December 31, 2011, 12:01:51 AM »

I picked up this little baby for $20 on Craigslist today. I have NO idea what it is other than it is cheap, and chinese. The only markings I can find on it are "Made in China" and 'R' on the compression chamber. It has a barrel lockup lever, a direct sear trigger, hooded front sight, elevation adjustable rear sight, 0.22 cal. Anyone have a guess?

It has a few issues that need to be sorted, the first of which is a wobbly front sight. Any thought on how to correct that? JBWeld? Gorilla Glue? I would prefer something less ugly, but if that is what I have to do, it's not like it cost me much.

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php/topic,23189

supertech77 · « **Reply #1 on:** December 31, 2011, 01:25:25 AM »

looks like a B-2 ,?industry type?

fperez0209 · « **Reply #2 on:** December 31, 2011, 11:09:58 AM »

I agree B-2,I have one in 177 .

jmdavis984 · « **Reply #3 on:** December 31, 2011, 12:04:31 PM »

I assume this has a leather piston seal. Can I use my 30W non-detergent oil for that, or do I need to get some synthetic stuff? Also, I think it has a leather breech seal as well. And it looks ROUGH. Any chance I will be able to replace it with an oring?

shadow · « **Reply #4 on:** December 31, 2011, 12:51:15 PM »

Look's like a B2 and both seals are probably leather. The piston button can be modded to take a synthetic seal. An O-rang would work in the breach. Ed

Onebaddj · « **Reply #5 on:** December 31, 2011, 02:36:54 PM »

I got a 177 that says mod 62 on it. I also have a 22 cal thats at my paremts house. Not sure the mod number on it. They are good little guns for the money and easy to work on. My 177 has leather seals. The rws chamber lube is made for leather seals and worked hreat on mine. Put a couple drops in work it back and forth let it sit for a while then repeat. After a couple rounds of that shoot it and see.

Tom @ Buzzard Bluff · « **Reply #6 on:** December 31, 2011, 03:18:07 PM »

"The only markings I can find on it are "Made in China" and 'R' on the compression chamber. It has a barrel lockup lever, a direct sear trigger, hooded front sight, elevation adjustable rear sight, 0.22 cal. Anyone have a guess?"
************************************************
Made by everyone with a vice, chisel, hammer and dull file in China at one time or another. Most incredibly badly. I have a .22 cal by Shanghai that I hang onto just to remind myself how incredibly bad early Chinese guns were. That said I've had 2 .177 versions stamped 'Lee' that were tackdrivers. Still have one of them. The single stage trigger on it came up roses after working on it! Tuned to 609fps w/8.4 gr Meisters and 682fps with 6.5 gr Gecos---with original leather seals. I won't let this one get away like I did the first Lee! Tom

jmdavis984 · « **Reply #7 on:** December 31, 2011, 07:22:03 PM »

I took one shot with it from about 10 ft. just to see if it would shoot at all. It SPRAYED brown gunk all over my target paper. So, I am guessing I am gonna need to tear it down and clean it up a bit. It smelled like fried food after the shot, that good old chinese grease smell. Now I guess I need to figure out how to get the thing apart.

z28rod · « **Reply #8 on:** December 31, 2011, 07:31:38 PM »

Clean the barrel with gogone asap. its a b1-2 chicom air rifle, i have one in 22 cal. good truck gun.

Izztyrr · « **Reply #9 on:** January 01, 2012, 03:24:07 AM »

Twenty bucks is not bad. Have been thinking about getting a B1 or B2 for a project rifle. Something to mess around with during the winter. See what kind of mods and improvments I can do on the really cheap.

Good luck with your rifle. Keep us posted.

supertech77 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 01, 2012, 12:09:57 PM »

Quote from: Izztyrr on January 01, 2012, 03:24:07 AM

Twenty bucks is not bad. Have been thinking about getting a B1 or B2 for a project rifle. Something to mess around with during the winter. See what kind of mods and improvments I can do on the really cheap.

Good luck with your rifle. Keep us posted.

they have them at summit in our mall for 39ish,b-1 b-2 b-3 ,177 and 22cal,got the b-2 255 22 cal.there is not much inside to really do any big fps increase,and the seer/piston connection is very weak,,that said,it is a tack driver to 45feet,fun gun to shoot,

jmdavis984 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 03, 2012, 11:16:17 AM »

I need to knock the front sight out to shim it. What do you all use for such things? Brass punches? Piece of wood dowel? Aluminum bar stock? Probably not Carbon-steel nail punches, right?

z28rod · « **Reply #12 on:** January 04, 2012, 09:44:55 AM »

Brass punch should be ok.

jmdavis984 · « **Reply #13 on:** January 16, 2012, 04:02:20 PM »

Knocked the front sight out, punched some dents into the barrel to tighten up the dovetail, and proceeded to nearly destroy the thing trying to get it back in. It fits in from the left, but goes on too easily past center. It just plain won't go on from the right, it's like the dovetails are beveled or something. I still haven't tried to sight it in, so I'll give that a try next. If the PoA is way out of line with the PoI in the direction that loosens the front sight, I guess I'll try to make some shims out of a pop can or something. I plan to fix it on good and solid once I get it sighted in. If all else fails, I guess I can chop off the end of the barrel and glue on a sight from a different gun, but that is going to be my last resort.

This is going to be my "learn to shoot a springer" gun until I get a B12 from Mike(which will take over that role), so I don't need it to be perfect. I just need it to be good enough to show the difference between a good hold and a bad hold.

Cathartes · « **Reply #14 on:** January 16, 2012, 09:49:08 PM »

Ha, I just so happened to have done a full rebuild on one of these for a friend of mine, and the breech seal looked almost that bad. I ended up replacing it with a 2.5mm x 8mm o-ring. The seal seat doesn't have a flat bottom, so I had to use a little Elmer's glue to raise the o-ring up flush. In the end it sealed perfectly.

I really like the simplicity of this gun's design. It was a fun rebuild for me, and I imagine you'll enjoy yours too.

jmdavis984 · « **Reply #15 on:** January 24, 2012, 11:20:27 PM »

Well, even after tapping the front sight in tightly with a punch, the front sight walked out after every couple shots. But, I managed to get it where I wanted, at least at 5 yards, and epoxied it in place. Hopefully the windage doesn't change much out to 20 yards, otherwise, I'll have to tap it out and try it again. Hopefully that epoxy doesn't set up TOO hard.

jmdavis984 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 04, 2012, 06:24:18 PM »

I'm about ready to wrap this thing around a tree. I spent almost three hours shooting about 200 pellets today (how do you guys shoot 500+ pellets in a day!) and couldn't even get close to finding any consistency. I had a hard time keeping all the pellets on a 7"x7" target from 10 yards. I am still getting lots of smoke every shot, so maybe that is throwing off the consistency? I would get two-three shots in few inches, then it would throw the next 7 all over the place. I tried shooting free-hand, rested, loose hold, tight hold. No results. I'll keep fiddling I suppose, but this may never end up being a shooter. I'll chime back in after I finish the 500-shot break-in period.

Bryan · « **Reply #17 on:** February 04, 2012, 11:39:07 PM »

The gun is so simple to rebuild. You could probably get it apart and back together in half an hour with no help even if you never tuned an AG before. That's what she needs- take her apart, run down to tge local hardware store with just the barrel and piston and try to get help finding a makeshift piston seal and breech seal. It will take some trial and error but it will be fun! I'm almost certain btw that a bad breech seal is part of your accuracy problem- the piston seal is probably pretty dried up too. Might just need some leather conditioner of some sort on that piston seal, newts lot oil or whatever kind of special concoction you come up with. Good luck!

jmdavis984 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 05, 2012, 09:30:58 AM »

Yeah, I was hoping I could get some enjoyment out of it before I tore it down, but I guess I might as well dive right in. I've come across two pretty good articles for full tear-downs of the B2, so I have some good direstionc to follow. THanks for the encouragement.

Paul68 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 05, 2012, 12:57:46 PM »

I'm currently working on a B2 as well, and it IS a very simple gun. Since its basically a "throwaway", I'm not worrying I might ruin it or something wont work. Great experiment platform.

The leather seal in mine is junk, so I made one out of garage stuff. Found a polyurethane sway bar bushing kit I had left over from a front end rebuild. These bushings are cylindrical and have a perfect diam hole through the center. I simply cut it down to a flat washer shape and sanded it flat, chucked it in a drill and ground the edge down to a slight angle and sized it to the breech, then lightly smoothed it with 800 grit. To get the "parachute" shape, I just found a socket of a diameter that would give the lip I wanted, heated it up with a torch, and pressed it in for a second. Then I just cleaned up the melted channel with a round dremel bit. Not precise machining, but it fits the chamber well and these particular polyurethane bushings are supposed to be self lubricating although they are probably too soft to expect anything more than maybe a thousand shots if that. To fit it to the piston I just used a new countersink bolt, the original seal washers, and a few small washers for spacers that fit inside the new seal to keep from overloading the seal and expanding it. The best part is that this homemade seal is 1/4 inch shorter than the original leather seal assembly, giving a slight increase in stroke and volume. By no means a professional job, but fun and cheap all the same. Just figured I'd toss this in and maybe give ya some ideas. BTW, the seal is shiny because I have it soaking in Teflon lube to give it some time to absorb and maybe increase its longevity. It'll be wiped clean at assembly.