Author Topic: LUBE YOUR PUMPERS!!! (Read 38602 times))

Toolmaker · « **on:** December 13, 2011, 09:59:15 AM »

My 397 is two years old. Right after I got it I did the "isolated check valve" mod. Since then all I've done is shoot it. It has had a good number of shots through it. I would occasionally give it a few drops of non-detergent 30wt oil. It started giving problems a couple of weeks ago. The valve was leaking out the intake side. When I pulled the valve I was shocked! Lots and lots of corrosion! I had a tough time just getting the valve screwed apart. It looks really bad on the inside. Thankfully I have an extra valve that I'm going to use. Not real sure I can save the original, it's that bad.

All of the Crosman and Benjamin / Sheridan pumpers built in the last few years have aluminum valves. This includes but not limited to the 1377, 760, 2100, 397, 392, Blue Streak, etc. If they are not lubed this WILL happen! Compressing air creates condensation (water) which oxidizes and corrodes the aluminum. The older guns have brass valves which are not as prone to this problem. I'm not sure when Crosman switched from brass to aluminum for their valves.

LUBE YOUR PUMPERS OFTEN TO PREVENT THIS!!!

amb5500c · « **Reply #1 on:** December 13, 2011, 11:26:23 AM »

Thanks for the good advice Matt.
Richard

Millipede · « **Reply #2 on:** December 13, 2011, 11:53:21 AM »

man, that is a real shame. so even though you were adding oil every now and then it still corroded? i've been hearing more and more about this lately but have yet to see and actual picture of it.

i bought a 760 a little over 8 years ago. i kindof forgot about it after a while and it sat around for the last 5-6 years. last year i decided to finally take it apart. it had a brass valve and it was in pristine condition with just a bit of old gross looking pelgun oil in it. i can understand using a cheaper material to make a gun thats supposed to be cheap in the first place, but they should have left the benji's alone. after all, arent you paying all that extra money to get a GREAT gun? how much could the brass valve actually add to the price? i wouldnt mind paying it...

the washington monument is topped by a pure aluminium pyramid. they picked that metal because of its resistance to corrosion. i was watching "life after people" on the history channel once and it was talking about how that little pyramid would last for thousands and thousands of years.

so whats the deal with these aluminium valves??

Petey · « **Reply #3 on:** December 13, 2011, 12:00:28 PM »

Made In China?
I just acquired a new 392. Looked all over the unit and the box. Doesn't say anything anywhere as to it's origin .

Or, is it made here with "Globally Sourced Parts"? Dunno, But I can say , It is one ugly AG compared to my Silver Streak.

SAADE · « **Reply #4 on:** December 13, 2011, 12:06:14 PM »

Washington Monument aluminum was etched and hard anodized in and out. Hard anodize is about .003" to .005" thick and tough stuff. Standard anodize is only .0002" or slightly more.

Crosman valves probably have no anodize at all?

Petey · « **Reply #5 on:** December 13, 2011, 12:11:59 PM »

I was just thinking about that! It could be hard Anodized .

Rasmuth · « **Reply #6 on:** December 13, 2011, 12:41:11 PM »

so...how often do you think we should lube these guns nowadays...I lube my old 761xl around every 250 shots....just a few drops of nd 30w oil.....

but I got a new 1377 for Christmas...whats everyone else doing with these for lubrication frequency?

SAADE · « **Reply #7 on:** December 13, 2011, 12:53:26 PM »

I think that lube is proportional to how much and how often (more importantly) you shoot the gun(s).

A drop or two on the pump wiper and one drop on any breech bolt o-ring every few hundred rounds is what I do on my Benji 397 and the Cros 1377.

Too much oil with too little use of the gun is not good. Most oils tend to congeal with age (get sticky/ugly).

run and gun · « **Reply #8 on:** December 13, 2011, 02:35:19 PM »

thats real bad..likewise on the 150 to 200 shots i'll add a few drops to the bolt/orings.sense this post i'm going to add a drop or two right now..

aznboi3644 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 13, 2011, 03:48:51 PM »

I just put a couple drops of some synthetic skate lube every couple hundred shots.

Man those seals and valve look bad lol

BenjiHunter · « **Reply #10 on:** December 13, 2011, 08:09:43 PM »

Lube where and with what?

airgunandy · « **Reply #11 on:** December 13, 2011, 08:41:50 PM »

My '08 Benji 392 has an aluminum valve. I had to replace it a couple of years ago due to corrosion and the intake check sticking open. I lightly oil it before every use now.
Funny thing is, my aluminum valve 1377's and 760's don't have near the trouble that Benji has. Have some from '07 still with their original aluminum valves. I oil them about every second or third time I use them.
I have one old 1377 from 1978 that has a felt wiper. None of the newer guns do. I just put a drop of oil (I used 30wt ND too) on the visible portion of the pump cup and on the pivots.

SAADE · « **Reply #12 on:** December 13, 2011, 11:01:03 PM »

Benjihunter: "lube where and with what?"

C'mon now, you are kidding right? With a Mac1 steroid, surely you have a bottle of Tim's secret sauce lube?

Toolmaker · « **Reply #13 on:** December 13, 2011, 11:28:05 PM »

Quote from: BenjiHunter on December 13, 2011, 08:09:43 PM

Lube where and with what?

I lube the back of the pump cup, the top of the piston and the pivot points with non-detergent 30wt motor oil. Pellgun oil, automatic transmission fluid, and Mac-1 secret sauce are also good pumper lubes.

I'll also say too much lubing would be better than not enough. Gunky oil can be cleaned out of a valve, corrosion can not! I was lubing my 397 about every 3rd shooting session. That obviously wasn't enough. I will lube it (a few drops) every time now.

BenjiHunter · « **Reply #14 on:** December 13, 2011, 11:34:25 PM »

Quote from: SAADE on December 13, 2011, 11:01:03 PM

Benjihunter: "lube where and with what?"

C'mon now, you are kidding right? With a Mac1 steroid, surely you have a bottle of Tim's secret sauce lube?

Sure, I lube the gun with that but Tim told me to lube the pivot points only, so that's what I have been doing.
And it's stamped near the pump cup, by the air hole. "Do not oil"

aack73 · « **Reply #15 on:** December 13, 2011, 11:39:37 PM »

Quote from: amb5500c on December 13, 2011, 11:26:23 AM

Thanks for the good advice Matt.
Richard

+1

if i lube the piston occasionally (from the outside) will that not make it to the valve.? or do i need to disassemble it too?

guess i already know this one but want to hear what you have to say.

crowpopper · « **Reply #16 on:** December 14, 2011, 01:47:55 AM »

The lube will migrate into the valve if you use secret sauce on the piviots and pump arm
if you lube each time u shoot you should be fine!

Rasmuth · « **Reply #17 on:** December 14, 2011, 01:53:10 AM »

lube every time?....really? Isn't that excessive?.....

BenjiHunter · « **Reply #18 on:** December 14, 2011, 02:01:36 AM »

Quote from: crowpopper on December 14, 2011, 01:47:55 AM

The lube will migrate into the valve if you use secret sauce on the piviots and pump arm
if you lube each time u shoot you should be fine!

That's is what I read on the Mac1 site and that's what I will continue to do.

crowpopper · « **Reply #19 on:** December 14, 2011, 03:02:59 AM »

Quote from: Rasmuth on December 14, 2011, 01:53:10 AM

lube every time?....really? Isn't that excessive?.....

it may seem excessive but tim knows his stuff and this was direct from him

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LUBE YOUR PUMPERS!!!

Author Topic: LUBE YOUR PUMPERS!!! (Read 38602 times))

Rasmuth

run and gun

Rasmuth