Scope Adjustment
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Scope Adjustment
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Topic: Scope Adjustment (Read 3269 times))
keith2324
Plinker
Posts: 249
Scope Adjustment
«
on:
March 12, 2011, 07:39:54 PM »
I have a Leapers 6-24X56 scope I am having a hard time getting to zero. Windage is good but I can't get the elevation on target. I'm 2 inches low and I have run out of adjustment. I would like to shim it but I keep getting conflicting reports on the web. Some people say shim the front and some say the back. Any help would be appreciated.
Keith.
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aack73
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Real Name: Chad
Re: Scope Adjustment
«
Reply #1 on:
March 12, 2011, 07:44:01 PM »
if your poi is lower than your poa. you need to lower the poa in order to raise the poi. shim the back. that will lower your poa and make you aim up more raising your poi. hope that wasn't confusing.
if so read it twice.
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North Pack
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Posts: 1775
Re: Scope Adjustment
«
Reply #2 on:
March 12, 2011, 07:50:03 PM »
Are you sure your scope is down into the dovetails completely?
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s10gto
Expert
Posts: 1747
Real Name: Dustin
Re: Scope Adjustment
«
Reply #3 on:
March 12, 2011, 07:50:43 PM »
Yes I agree raise the rear of the scope. Be careful shimming as you can damage the tube. The best way is to get a droop compensating mount. Sportsmatch , RWS , Hawke and leapers make them.
Here's a pic of Sportsmatch mounts I needed to zero my Diana 52. You can see the rear is higher.
Dustin
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keith2324
Plinker
Posts: 249
Re: Scope Adjustment
«
Reply #4 on:
March 12, 2011, 08:04:06 PM »
The weird thing is I didn't have this problem before. I'll check to see if it's mounted correctly. Thanks North Pack.
Keith.
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Real Name: Chad
Re: Scope Adjustment
«
Reply #5 on:
March 12, 2011, 08:57:06 PM »
make sure it hasn't moved and you might check that the cross hairs will move and track correctly. and stay put.
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Remo
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Posts: 332
Re: Scope Adjustment
«
Reply #6 on:
March 13, 2011, 10:45:34 AM »
How high is the scope above the bore? I have a UTG (Leapers) 4-16 x 40 that runs out of adjustment if mounted on my TSS ( 3"+ above the bore) but works fine on my Crosman NPSS.
You might try optically centering the scope before mounting it in adjustable mounts. Adjustable mounts can be used for the majority of the elevation adjustment so you have the maximum range adjustment of the scope knobs for "fine tuning".
Eric
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AirScopes
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Real Name: Richard Lynch
Re: Scope Adjustment
«
Reply #7 on:
March 13, 2011, 11:00:37 AM »
One key issue here... what distance are you shooting to sight in? If you are shooting at a very short distance to sight in you may not have enough vertical clicks to get there. This illustration shows approximately what might be happening... The green line is the trajectory, the magenta is the scope view. A target too close would not allow proper compensation, but might be over-compensation with a more distant target.
You can tell if this is the issue by stepping back from the target. If you step back and the pellets hit higher, the pellet is still rising. Really you want the pellet to drop when you step back. The scope views in a straight line, and the pellet follows an arching trajectory. The alignment of the trajectory and scope view can happen at the rise, the drop, or the apex. Depending on where you align, you will get somewhat different results. The illustration below shows alignment to the apex... which may actually NOT be the best choice depending on the gun, speed of the projectile, mounting height, distance, what you shoot, and several other variables.
The apex is fine for set-distance shooting, but you may want a range between the rise and fall if you hunt or shoot something like a walking target. The illustration below shows a longer "depth of field" for the scope focus, where the apex of the trajectory is slightly above the scope view.
Getting the line of the scope closer to the line of the barrel can help (using the lowest mounts you can), and so would an adjustable mount. Shimming is really not something I would recommend if you have any respect for your scope. You can bend the tube in shimmed 2-piece mounts. Shimming will also take away from the stability of the mount (one or two piece) a little at a time as you shim more. But you do want to correct the issue with the alignment. Torquing the elevation on a scope will not do the scope any favors, as the further from center you get, the more likely your scope will have issues holding zero, or maintaining accurate clicks.
To combat this you could use the design of the reticle to adjust for distance rather than the turrets. This is appropriate when you, say, normally shoot outside but temporarily are confined to a short range in your basement for inclement weather. If you sight to a mildot instead of changing the reticle position, the reticle will not have to settle and will not need to be re-sighted when you take it to your normal range again.
The other option is a mount with elevation adjustment. Take a look at the mag-mounts I sell that will help with the issue, and the long-ish article here:
http://www.airscopes.com/Zen/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_5
That should help clarify some of the problems and how an adjustable mount is a great solution.
I hope that helps!
Richard
«
Last Edit: March 13, 2011, 12:37:42 PM by AirScopes (thebookdoc)
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Scope Adjustment